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Testing Bosch Charge circuit

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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2016 at 10:18
When you say new LED idiot lights, does that include the charge warning light? If so change it back to a bulb, LEDs won't work in that position.
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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2016 at 10:34
Good point didn't see that The charge warning bulb MUST be the oem one  the system depends on it to work , however this is mentioned in the testing the system part.
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DrD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2016 at 20:10
Actually the LED seems to work in that position
Its on when ignition switch on, flickering at 1000-1500rpm and goes off above that.
It also comes on and off when performing the tests outlined above in exactly the same way as standard bulb

Checked over the electrics - loose relay - and no problem on today's little jaunt.

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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2016 at 21:57
It most likely will light and go out OK, the essential detail tho is that it needs to pass 100 mA (0.1A) to the alternator rotor to help it start up ... LED won't do that... unless you strap it with a resistor of say 150 Ohms.

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DrD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2016 at 08:53
This is something I did not realise
 - so whether LED or bulb I need 1.2W 12V at the console for the system to function correctly at start up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2016 at 09:13
Unless an LED has been set up specially with a shunt resistance, it will not pass enough current to activate the rotor magnet. So unless you have that shunt resistor in parallel with the LED you do need a 12v 2.2w (usually) bulb in that position. Some do fit a 12v 1.2w bulb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2016 at 09:37
OK so using P= V*I
12V at 1.2W gives 0.1A
12V at 2.2W gives 0.18A

With the LED in place (I have after market console with 8mm cut outs and no non-led fits!)
I need to have a 120 Ohms (or slightly less) in parallel. Probably not 150 as you stated above.
Bound to have one in the blue box of electron magic somewhere

Another fun evening of console wiring beckons!
I was going to add relay to ignition switch anyway........


Edited by DrD - 29 May 2016 at 09:45
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2016 at 10:06
Yes, you try to get around 0.2A through the rotor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2016 at 17:21
Fitted an 80 Ohm 5W resistor in parallel, on a heat-sink (the alloy console)
Battery is charged after 20 minute run..so hopefully that is ok
....will do full circuit test after I have fitted the ignition switch relay
(using john noble's "charging-around-the-circuit" document as guide)
Onwards and err... ...onwards
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2016 at 21:50
OK then!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 23:25
New regulator fitted and now steady 13.8V at tickover rising to 14.2 at higher revs.
Ignition relay wired up but forgot to buy 30A fuse of the right type...duh!
New Domino starter/kill switch to be fitted once the new throttle grip arrives then I can ride it again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:16
Good job It does amaze me when all the trouble one goes to when the very simple solution is USE a correct value bulb! In 40 yrs and over 200,000 miles NEVER had a charge bulb fail, I have replaced bulbs when it was rewired BUT the ONLY bulb that died was the one that is the lights on one as it was for most of that time permanently in use.

From the research I did the Bosch system is very reliable, YES Brushes wear BUT take a good few tens of thousand miles to do so.

The Rotor can fail due to the windings work hardening (They Say) had that ONCE after over 200k

The Rectifier is almost bullet proof usually only dies IF a dead short , You can get the diodes BUT a New one is not that expensive at all.

The Voltage reg as standard is very robust but can cause issues there IS an easy straight variable solid state replacement fits the same bracket and plugs into the loom. Available from Paul at Electrics marine in Leics OR Towzatronics

It is easy to make up a charging circuit loom OR buy one after 40 yrs my loom was really getting knackered the wires were getting brittle insulation cracking and copper wire turning black Had mine re done completely by Towza of Towzatronics ....did a fantastic job total rewire Refurbished or replaced every component like Starter, alternator, lights, headlamp switchgear ...Soooo impressed I priced to buy the wires and connectors , if I added the starter refurb and such  it would have cost me MORE to do it myself!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 13:29
Yeah, I made the rolling renovation of the Le Mans a little more difficult by deciding to go LED for lights with the complications that makes for the Bosch generating system (rather than drilling the alloy console to take standard bulbs) but on the plus side, I know the electrical system quite well now!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 18:10
good job by the way ....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2017 at 21:32
Ken, in your first post on this thread can you clarify which wires to remove when you connect the jump from rectifier to alternator please? Is it just the red one?
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