Testing Bosch Charge circuit |
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17637 |
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When you say new LED idiot lights, does that include the charge warning light? If so change it back to a bulb, LEDs won't work in that position.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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Good point didn't see that The charge warning bulb MUST be the oem one the system depends on it to work , however this is mentioned in the testing the system part.
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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Actually the LED seems to work in that position
Its on when ignition switch on, flickering at 1000-1500rpm and goes off above that. It also comes on and off when performing the tests outlined above in exactly the same way as standard bulb Checked over the electrics - loose relay - and no problem on today's little jaunt. |
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8731 |
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It most likely will light and go out OK, the essential detail tho is that it needs to pass 100 mA (0.1A) to the alternator rotor to help it start up ... LED won't do that... unless you strap it with a resistor of say 150 Ohms.
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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This is something I did not realise
- so whether LED or bulb I need 1.2W 12V at the console for the system to function correctly at start up? |
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17637 |
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Unless an LED has been set up specially with a shunt resistance, it will not pass enough current to activate the rotor magnet. So unless you have that shunt resistor in parallel with the LED you do need a 12v 2.2w (usually) bulb in that position. Some do fit a 12v 1.2w bulb.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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OK so using P= V*I
12V at 1.2W gives 0.1A 12V at 2.2W gives 0.18A With the LED in place (I have after market console with 8mm cut outs and no non-led fits!) I need to have a 120 Ohms (or slightly less) in parallel. Probably not 150 as you stated above. Bound to have one in the blue box of electron magic somewhere Another fun evening of console wiring beckons! I was going to add relay to ignition switch anyway........ Edited by DrD - 29 May 2016 at 09:45 |
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17637 |
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Yes, you try to get around 0.2A through the rotor.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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Fitted an 80 Ohm 5W resistor in parallel, on a heat-sink (the alloy console)
Battery is charged after 20 minute run..so hopefully that is ok ....will do full circuit test after I have fitted the ignition switch relay (using john noble's "charging-around-the-circuit" document as guide) Onwards and err... ...onwards |
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8731 |
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OK then!
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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New regulator fitted and now steady 13.8V at tickover rising to 14.2 at higher revs.
Ignition relay wired up but forgot to buy 30A fuse of the right type...duh! New Domino starter/kill switch to be fitted once the new throttle grip arrives then I can ride it again! |
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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Good job It does amaze me when all the trouble one goes to when the very simple solution is USE a correct value bulb! In 40 yrs and over 200,000 miles NEVER had a charge bulb fail, I have replaced bulbs when it was rewired BUT the ONLY bulb that died was the one that is the lights on one as it was for most of that time permanently in use. From the research I did the Bosch system is very reliable, YES Brushes wear BUT take a good few tens of thousand miles to do so. The Rotor can fail due to the windings work hardening (They Say) had that ONCE after over 200k The Rectifier is almost bullet proof usually only dies IF a dead short , You can get the diodes BUT a New one is not that expensive at all. The Voltage reg as standard is very robust but can cause issues there IS an easy straight variable solid state replacement fits the same bracket and plugs into the loom. Available from Paul at Electrics marine in Leics OR Towzatronics It is easy to make up a charging circuit loom OR buy one after 40 yrs my loom was really getting knackered the wires were getting brittle insulation cracking and copper wire turning black Had mine re done completely by Towza of Towzatronics ....did a fantastic job total rewire Refurbished or replaced every component like Starter, alternator, lights, headlamp switchgear ...Soooo impressed I priced to buy the wires and connectors , if I added the starter refurb and such it would have cost me MORE to do it myself!!!!!
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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DrD
Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2016 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 162 |
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Yeah, I made the rolling renovation of the Le Mans a little more difficult by deciding to go LED for lights with the complications that makes for the Bosch generating system (rather than drilling the alloy console to take standard bulbs) but on the plus side, I know the electrical system quite well now!
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Le Mans thing (plus other stuff)
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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good job by the way ....
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Jerry atric
Senior Member Joined: 24 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Status: Offline Points: 3364 |
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Ken, in your first post on this thread can you clarify which wires to remove when you connect the jump from rectifier to alternator please? Is it just the red one?
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