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Read Brake Proportional Valve

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A65Rocket View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 16:56
I am adding a sidecar brake into rear brake circuit on my 1999 EV.

Looking at the hydraulic circuits, I think the bast place is to add a double banjo to the rear brake feed from the proportional valve.

Looking at the valve, it has a strange cone section leading to the front brake feed, what is it, and can I remove it to create more space there.

Attached photo shows the system.

There is not much space there, so I could add it to the feed from the master cylinder.

thoughts & comments.

I have replaced the rear caliper with a P08 and have a small V50 caliper on the sidecar.
I am not planning to replace the master cylinder unless the bore is too small, I will find this out once the system is functioning.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 17:25
Im sure someone who knows will be along soon but here is my guess, this is some sort of pressure reducer so if you take it out and reconnect the front the front/rear pressure distribution will be messed up.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 17:46
That shaped part on my Spada III was some sort of brake valve for the front. It only opened when the hydraulic pressure rose above a preset level, and was designed to ensure the front brake was applied just after the rear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Drumnagorrach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 17:46
Earlier T3 's didn't have the proportional valve ,and in my opinion stopped a lot better.
 I remember feeling the bike squat down both back and front when I gave the pedal a hard press .
 My 1100i doesn't stop as well .
 How about just take out the innards ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A65Rocket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 17:49
Reading Guzziology, that makes sense.

The black block is just a manifold for the fluids.
The tapered block is the pressure delay for the front, it kicks in after the back brake applies.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Drumnagorrach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 17:51
Brian , that seems to be the wrong way round , I thought the front brake got priority ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A65Rocket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 19:42
One thought.

What are the groups thoughts on making your own brake items using my trusty Myford ML7

I'm thinking of a hex block of stainless steel, with a 10x1.0 hole for the front brake pipe, and a male extra thread at the other end to screw into the manifold block, this would take both the back brake pipe.
My sidecar brake pipe which is an M10x1.0 male, I would drill into the side of my new hex block.
Would a good M10 tap make a clean enough thread ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ianboydsnr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 20:05
Originally posted by A65Rocket A65Rocket wrote:

One thought.

What are the groups thoughts on making your own brake items using my trusty Myford ML7

I'm thinking of a hex block of stainless steel, with a 10x1.0 hole for the front brake pipe, and a male extra thread at the other end to screw into the manifold block, this would take both the back brake pipe.
My sidecar brake pipe which is an M10x1.0 male, I would drill into the side of my new hex block.
Would a good M10 tap make a clean enough thread ?

Opinions / comments.



Yes you can make your own,

You could also remove the pipe going to the front disc, then run that pipe outlet to the sidecar, and connect the front disc to the front master cylinder, so you have separate front and back, you probably wouldn't have to upgrade the front master but you might


I wouldn't use stainless, alluminium or brass would be fine and is easier to machine, plenty of brass and alloy used in brakes.

Edited by Ianboydsnr - 12 Feb 2017 at 20:14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A65Rocket Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 20:31
Brass is nicer to machine, also bronze is good.

I wanted to keep the linked brakes as I have used them before on sidecars and like the multi caliper braking effect.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 20:32
Originally posted by Drumnagorrach Drumnagorrach wrote:

Brian , that seems to be the wrong way round , I thought the front brake got priority ?


Rear brake pedal, remember - rear first, then adds front if you push harder.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Drumnagorrach Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 20:34
Have you had a look at Demon Tweeks web site ? they have a lot of brake components for rally cars , . I seem to remember seeing adjustable proportioning valves ,as well as T pieces and make your own braided brake pipe components .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2017 at 21:41
Originally posted by Drumnagorrach Drumnagorrach wrote:

Brian , that seems to be the wrong way round , I thought the front brake got priority ?
Once the front kicks in, then the proportioning valve limits the pressure to the rear, so yes, the front does take priority.
 
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