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Oil advice and Recommendation

Printed From: guzziriders.org - moto guzzi forum
Category: Technical
Forum Name: Oil
Forum Description: Where members can agonise over the right oil to use in their Guzzi.
URL: http://www.guzziriders.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=865
Printed Date: 20 Oct 2018 at 01:28
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Topic: Oil advice and Recommendation
Posted By: oilman
Subject: Oil advice and Recommendation
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2015 at 09:58
If you would like any oil advice or a recommendation for your bike please feel free to ask here and we will get back to you as soon as we can.
 
To help us to give the most accurate advice possible we do need some information about your Bike. e.g:

Make:
Model:
Year:
Engine type:
Performance modifications:
Driving style: (road / off-road / track etc)

 
Any oil we recommend is available to buy from us (if you would like to) for delivery throughout the UK and many destinations in Europe. We offer a really extensive range of oils and lubricants from 11 major oil manufacturers at prices much lower than the high street and main dealers. We stock oils and fluids that meet pretty much all manufacturers and international specifications. Our brands include, Silkolene, Fuchs, Gulf, Castrol, Motul, Mobil, Millers Oils, Shell, Valvoline, Amsoil and Redline.
 
The good news is, now the Club is a member of our club discount scheme you can discounts of at least 10% across our entire range.

Any questions please ask here or contact us via email at sales@opieoils.co.uk

Finally, if there are any products we don't stock and you have difficulty getting hold of elsewhere, let us know and we'll see if we can stock them.

We look forward to being of help!

Cheers
Guy, Opie Oils
 
You can also contact us by phone on +44 1209 202944
(All oils recommended are available to buy online at my http://www.opieoils.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - web site )


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944



Replies:
Posted By: iceni
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2015 at 08:34
Hi
Bike details:
Moto Guzzi 750T, 1992
Lubricants required: 80W - 145 Hypoy for rear drive   1 litre
Molyslip for rear drive.

Can you supply see items please?

Also please advise price for maintenance kit for S&B type air filters.

Thanks and regards



Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2015 at 10:54
Hi

I have the final drive listed as a 85w-140, not something that we have as it's a bit out dated, but we do have 80w-140s and 75w-140s. At operating temps, they are the same viscosity as a 75w-140, but they are thinner when cold, so flow better, putting less strain on components,

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-674-75w-140-gear-oil.aspx

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-677-80w-140-gear-oil.aspx

Sorry, but we don't sell Molyslip.

K&N cleaning products should be good for the filter

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1151-cleaning-maintaining-your-kn-air-filter.aspx

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 11 May 2015 at 14:14
Hi Folks,

Struggling to find the correct oil for your bike? Please as the Oilman for their professional advice and recommendation.

To help us to give the most accurate advice possible we do need some information about your bike. e.g:

Make:
Model:
Year:
Engine type:
Performance modifications:
Driving style: (road / off-road / track etc)
Any other information that may be relevant: e.g. approx BHP if modified, oil temps if known

For any advice please reply to the bump, fill out our http://www.opieoils.co.uk/frmRecommendAnOil.aspx" rel="nofollow - Recommendation Forum or email us on [email]sales@opieoils.co.uk[/email], ring Opie Oils on 01209 202949

Cheers
Oilman



-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: vmaxer
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 19:43
Make: BMW
Model: K1100LT
Year:  1995
Engine type: 1064cc DOHC flat four 4v per cylinder
Performance modifications: None
Driving style: (road / off-road / track etc) Normal road use, moderate, very little if any thrashing, plenty of two up riding
 
As a footnote.
My bike was using quite a bit of oil, as is commonly reported with this model
The first 200 miles saw a noticeable drop in the level.
Oil being used in the history was 10/W - 40 Semi
One of the BMW club forum officials recommended switching out to a 20W-50 mineral oil which might improve it.
I took it with a pinch of salt, but did it anyway, and to my astonishment, after 250 miles since, have found he was right, and oil usage has gone down to pretty much nothing.
Would like to know if a fully synthetic would be better.
Don't mind spending money on my babies.
 
 


Posted By: Tarquin
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 20:08
For that particular bike the BMW official was correct.

It is better off with a good quality mineral 20-50 and this also reduces the risk of a synthetic ( thinner ) creeping past old seals and leaking ( particularly the main crank seal which will then contaminate the clutch.

Many have successfully used semi and full synthetic but it is not what is recommended and the mineral will be just fine.


-------------
California 111 70th Anniversary Model, California 1100i 75th Anniversary Model, Honda ST1300


โ€œNever argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.โ€


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 09:45
Hi

It makes sense that a thicker oil reduces oil consumption, but a 20w-50 mineral oil is not thicker than a 20w-50 synthetic. 20w-50 is 20w-50 no matter what it's made of. Yes, you can make a synthetic oil thinner than a mineral oil, but you can also make it thicker.  Synthetics are also more resistant to burning off than a mineral oil.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: montrossities
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 23:38
Hello;
Moto Guzzi
EV-80
2002 touring
stock
40,000 miles
road rider
Please advise on best engine oil-trans oil-final drive oil
Thanks;
David


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2016 at 09:23
Hi

According to my data, the standard spec was 10w-60 for the engine, but I don't think you'd have any issues using a 15w-50, 10w-50 or 20w-50 as other options.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-942-10w-60-engine-oils.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-784-15w-50.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-881-10w-50-engine-oils.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-785-20w-50.aspx

The best oils there are the Silkolene Pro 4 and Comp 4, Motul 300v and 7100, Red Line, Shell Advance Ultra, Mobil Racing and Castrol Power 1 Racing. The Motul 5100, Castrol Power 1 and Silkolene Super 4 are good cheaper alternatives.

You need an 80w-90 for the gearbox and the Silkolene BOA is a good option.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-772-silkolene-boa-80w-90-for-gearboxes-and-final-drives.aspx

The original spec for the final drive is 85w-140, but that is no longer a common grade and we don't have any, so I would use a 80w-140 instead, like this.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1018-red-line-synthetic-gear-oil-80w-140-gl5.aspx

A few people have told me that Moto Guzzi gearboxes and final drives aren't that smooth and can be a bit noisy. Because of that, I have suggested the Red Line Shockproof oils for them (as are used to sort out the same issues in Harleys) and the Lightweight is a good option for the gearbox and Heavy for the final drive. Not cheap, but top end stuff.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1022-red-line-lightweight-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-90.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-line-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-140.aspx

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: montrossities
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2016 at 03:18
Thank you for the great advice;
Ride Safe;
David


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2016 at 12:54
Make: Breva
Model: V 850
Year: 2008
Engine type:
Performance modifications:
Driving style: road 

Hi I'm new to the forum and also new to Moto Guzzi :-)

Please I need advice on engine oil and final drive oil. I live in Nigeria and the specified 10W60 seems to be scarce. I'm really trying to avoid importing oil anytime I need to do an oil change. 

Speaking of oil change how many Kilometres do I need to cover before an oil change and oil filter change 

I saw 15W50. Would that do. Considering its always hot here in Nigeria with a whole lot of traffic jam 

Thanks 


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2016 at 10:50
Hi

To be honest, as it's  going to be getting hot (hot climate and sitting in traffic), a 10w-60 makes more sense for you than other people. Can you get a 15w-60 or 20w-60?

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: red leader one
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2016 at 16:19
I thought they had plenty of oil over there.

Sorry, I'll get me coat.


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 01:41
thanks Tim. Will keep searching. Also at what's the oil change interval. How many Kilometres before an oil change & filter change 


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 01:44
I thought so too. Beat me they don't have 10W60. I'll keep searching. Else I'll have to order. Would also like to know oil & filter change intervals so i know ho to plan my oil & filter orders. Thanks 


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2016 at 08:59
With the specified oil, 10,000 km.

-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2016 at 14:42
Finding the correct http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-775-bike-engine-oil-by-viscosity.aspx" rel="nofollow - bike oil can be difficult and frustrating.

Why struggle alone? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - Opie Oils are here to help! Our expert advice is free and impartial. From the most extreme modern motorcycles to vintage, veteran and classic we are able to help. With the added peace of mind knowing you have the best http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-775-bike-engine-oil-by-viscosity.aspx" rel="nofollow - oil in your bike.

Please send in your question to [email]sales@opieoils.co.uk[/email] or rinf us on 01209 101949 Monday - Friday, 8:30-5:30 or just reply to this thread.

That's all from us today

Cheers
Oilman

-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:01
also how many liters would do to service my engine. 4l or 5l 

Thanks 


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 10:02
First of all we have to remember which engine you have. But no Guzzi has a capacity greater than 3 litres.

-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: Oldrat
Date Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 21:20
I Rang Opie a couple of days ago and spoke to a tech guy who gave me sound advice about my situation. You dont get that with Halfrauds,so I placed an order there and then, two days later its arrived, and at a very reasonable price.



Thank you Opie, top service, and great VFM๐Ÿ‘

-------------
1976 "Zagato" Gootsi cafe racer
1980 LM 2, Coburn and Hughes.
2017 BMW R1200 GSA


Posted By: '76Convert
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 15:56
Anyone have an oil recommendation available in the US?  Engine oil for a convert, it's other oils should be easy to find.  I think the book states 10-50 or maybe 10-60 which I don't recall ever seeing here.  I assume that any good quality 20-50 should be fine for it, but thought I'd ask.

-------------
If I offended you it was probably an accident, I'm American and we use different words. Unless you deserved being offended, in which case I meant exactly what you perceived.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 16:46
Hi

A 20w-50 should be okay, it just offers less cold start protection than a 10w-50.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 01:53
Originally posted by oilman oilman wrote:

Finding the correct http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-775-bike-engine-oil-by-viscosity.aspx" rel="nofollow - bike oil can be difficult and frustrating.

Why struggle alone? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - Opie Oils are here to help! Our expert advice is free and impartial. From the most extreme modern motorcycles to vintage, veteran and classic we are able to help. With the added peace of mind knowing you have the best http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-775-bike-engine-oil-by-viscosity.aspx" rel="nofollow - oil in your bike.

Please send in your question to [email]sales@opieoils.co.uk[/email] or rinf us on 01209 101949 Monday - Friday, 8:30-5:30 or just reply to this thread.

That's all from us today

Cheers
Oilman

Thanks. I have been talking to a Liqui Moly representative here in Nigeria. And they ha accepted to get th 4T 10w60 for me at an affordable rate. Thanks all the same 


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 01:57
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

First of all we have to remember which engine you have. But no Guzzi has a capacity greater than 3 litres.

Good news for me. I hav place order for 2 4L of Liqui Moly 4T 10w60 OIL. Just wanted to b sure that was adequate for 2 services 

Thanks on again


Posted By: Blind Lemon Ade
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2016 at 11:37
Dear Oilman, here's a dumb-sounding question...

The manual says change the oil every 10,000km or annually. Why annually? What happens to an oil to make it "go off" in one year, even if the bike isn't used?

I guess I'm asking, do I have to change the oil, even if I don't do 10,000km? I suspect I know the answer already, but why?

And if it "goes off" in an engine, does it have a shelf life in a sealed container? So, if I have left-over new oil after an oil change, can I keep it, and use it a year later?

Yours in tribological confusion,
Ade.

 


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Posted By: Mike H
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2016 at 16:59
I've used old oil without any problems (that I know of)

Hope it doesn't 'go off' as I like to keep stocks in advance of servicing and in case of emergencies...



-------------
"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."


Posted By: '76Convert
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2016 at 21:11
Once oil is exposed to the byproducts of combustion it starts to break down, it can become acidic along with other potential problems.  Filters also start breaking down and can disintegrate, I've found a few that did.  Oil on a shelf also breaks down but not as badly.  Having used old oil with no problem doesn't mean it didn't do some damage, just that you didn't know whether it was doing damage.  I would avoid storing oil and filters long term for future use, buy them as you need them.

-------------
If I offended you it was probably an accident, I'm American and we use different words. Unless you deserved being offended, in which case I meant exactly what you perceived.


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2016 at 18:15
Originally posted by Blind Lemon Ade Blind Lemon Ade wrote:

Dear Oilman, here's a dumb-sounding question...

The manual says change the oil every 10,000km or annually. Why annually? What happens to an oil to make it "go off" in one year, even if the bike isn't used?

I guess I'm asking, do I have to change the oil, even if I don't do 10,000km? I suspect I know the answer already, but why?

And if it "goes off" in an engine, does it have a shelf life in a sealed container? So, if I have left-over new oil after an oil change, can I keep it, and use it a year later?

Yours in tribological confusion,
Ade.

 

Lollllll @tribological confusion LOL

76Convert has said it all. Once th oil is pure into the engine & being used that's when you either start counting 10,000km or 12months 

Trust me we all get confused 


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 12:54
It's not just the combustion byproducts that are the issue, once the oil is opened, oxidisation of the additives in the oil start to break it down, so a can that has been opened and then put in the shed for a couple of years will not be as effective as a sealed can. Also, the additives can settle over time, so giving it a good shake to get the additives back into suspension can be necessary.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Blind Lemon Ade
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 20:56
Thanks for your answers... Smile

A quick read on the Interweb suggested that 5 years is the suggested maximum shelf life for oil in a sealed container. Is this right?

Meanwhile, I'd better do more miles, to get my moneys-worth out of my oil!



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Posted By: Mike H
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2016 at 21:16
Verrry interesting!

Before I moved I still had a quarter gallon of 20+ years old 20/50 in the shed, I don't feel so guilty about chucking it away now LOL




-------------
"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."


Posted By: '76Convert
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2016 at 04:38
The shelf life of oil is highly debated, but the general consensus is that simpler oils are safer longer.  If anything has settled out of suspension it's advised to discard it, not try to mix it back in as it won't really fix the problem.  As far as oxidation of an open container, that's debatable.  They weren't packaged in an oxygen-free environment, but an open container does provide much more exposure.  It could be compared to a whisky that was opened or leaking, except that oil can not get better with age or exposure.  I wouldn't be too concerned with air exposure in a small container, but it is a reasonable factor.  A large container that's been mostly depleted increases the oxidation damage.  A 55 gal drum down to a few gallons and long storage should definitely be disposed of.  If you have a diesel engine without too many modern emissions controls it's fuel tank is a great place for oil disposal.

-------------
If I offended you it was probably an accident, I'm American and we use different words. Unless you deserved being offended, in which case I meant exactly what you perceived.


Posted By: Lemon 2 Junior
Date Posted: 06 May 2016 at 17:18
Hi, can you give me a price for engine and gearbox oil for my

Moto Guzzi
Le Mans 2
1981
850cc

Road riding, engine and box will be pushed.


Posted By: Ken-Guzzibear
Date Posted: 06 May 2016 at 18:20
lem2 go to the Opie oils website and it will give you the info To be fair gearbox takes the 80/90 hypoy oil as does the bevel box in bevel box the amounts are in the manulas Molyslip in the bevel box keeps it sweet I tend to pop moly into the gearbox smooths it ...my gearbox has covered an awful lot of miles Opie do not have moly but Halfords have it .....

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The Older i Get, The Better I Was


Posted By: Lemon 2 Junior
Date Posted: 06 May 2016 at 18:30
Bevel Box? is that the torque converter?   Never heard of Molyslip before, just had a quick google, so you use it as an additive to the gearbox oil?  


Posted By: Ken-Guzzibear
Date Posted: 06 May 2016 at 18:40
Additive to the bevel box the drive box in the rear hub buddy I do tend to pop some into the gearbox as well ....look in the manuals it gives the how what and how much ....they are free to download on This old tractor website,
 
ALL the Tonti ie 850/1000 right up to the 1100 Cali EV use the same gearbox/bevel box
 
Molyslip is a MUST for the bevel box unless you want to go utterly bonkers and pay silly money for the redline oil ...my opinion it is a waste of dosh GUZZI manufactured the engine /drive box and gear box to go well over 100k miles with basic oil change and maintenance THEIR recommendation is 80/90 hypoy in drive and gearbox with moly in the bevel and in the case of the 70's bikes 20/50 oil I do believe nowadays they go for 10/40 or 50 ....ONLY the Cali EV with hydraulic lifters needs a specialist oil fully synthetic and 5/40


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The Older i Get, The Better I Was


Posted By: Lemon 2 Junior
Date Posted: 06 May 2016 at 18:47
Cheers Ken, will defo pick some up over the weekend.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 11 May 2016 at 10:18
Originally posted by Lemon 2 Junior Lemon 2 Junior wrote:

Hi, can you give me a price for engine and gearbox oil for my

Moto Guzzi
Le Mans 2
1981
850cc

Road riding, engine and box will be pushed.


We would use http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-89796-motul-7100-4t-10w-50-ester-synthetic-bike-engine-oil.aspx" rel="nofollow - Motul 7100 4T 10w-50

The gearbox we would use http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-92078-motul-hd-80w-90-extreme-pressure-gear-differential-oil.aspx" rel="nofollow - Motul HD 80w-90

Cheers
Phil


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: hughguzzi
Date Posted: 11 May 2016 at 16:40
Hi Guy@Opie oils

Oils in Engine / Gearbox / Bevel drive recommendation and prices for
M Guzzi Griso
1100 4v
2008 11500 miles done.
Mods - Termi exhaust, Finebeau mod for lower revs.
Road riding - some short journey, mostly spirited longer rides, will be touring europe in a few weeks
Cheers Hugh



Posted By: hughguzzi
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 15:47
Still waiting.................


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 15:51
Hi

Sorry, I've only just seen this.

A 10w-60 is ideal for the engine and the Silkolene Pro 4 is about as good as oil gets, the Motul 7100 is very good too.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-942-10w-60-engine-oils.aspx

This is ideal for the gearbox and final drive.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-772-silkolene-boa-80w-90-for-gearboxes-and-final-drives.aspx

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: hughguzzi
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 20:29
Many thanks will check these out 
Hugh



Posted By: hughguzzi
Date Posted: 21 May 2016 at 21:02
Order now placed cheers !!


Posted By: Tony_B
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2016 at 17:47
Just found  that the oil level in my 750 T is right on the low mark. Only place open is Halfrauds, so I ended up buying Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-60 API SN/SM.
I am assuming this will be ok ?
Cheers.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2016 at 09:33
Hi

It will be fine.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Tony_B
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2016 at 09:41
Cheers Tim.


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 19:57
Nigeria being hot and dusty or hot and very wet and /or muddy and wet I'd be following Moto Guzzi advice and doing lube changes at half the usual standard 10,000km or 6,000miles. Your machine will last a lot longer. Standard advice is to change the engine oil filter every time you change the engine oil.  This makes for expensive running costs but sweetens the riding. Did your bike not come with any paperwork??  If not why not? Oh and 10/60 for Nigeria for sure but could drop the higher figure by 10 or 20 if you move to Murmansk.
Ride safe and don't drink the swimming pool water.
Nevada John


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Nevada John


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2016 at 22:49
Thanks @NevadaJohn

I came across a Liqui Mouly representative here in Nigeria, so happy I'm sure of a regular supply Smile

I've heard so much about this "Nigeria being hot and dusty or hot and very wet and /or muddy and wet I'd be following Moto Guzzi advice and doing lube changes at half the usual standard 10,000km or 6,000miles." Please can you throw more light how wet and muddy affects my oil change intervals Confused

Thanks


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2016 at 22:54
LOLLOLLOLlol @Murmansk & I sure will ride safe & leave waters in swimming pools alone TongueBig smileLOL


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2016 at 09:13
If you are running an engine in a hot climate, the oil will be thinner, and more stressed.
Dust - if there is a lot, can get into all parts, and over time becomes a grinding compound, which will cause wear.


-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2016 at 18:32
Wow. Thanks @Brain UK. Much appreciated


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2016 at 21:04
Entirely endorse Brian's comments re hot and dusty and would add that additional stress on all moving parts when riding through mud, water, landslides, adverse climate and geography.  It wasn't just me recommending more frequent oil changes; it's part of Moto Guzzi recommendation too.
treat your bike like you would treat your horse and it will be much lss likely to let you down.


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Nevada John


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2016 at 22:24
Originally posted by NevadaJohn NevadaJohn wrote:

when riding through mud, water, landslides, adverse climate and geography. 
I'm sure there are more civilised parts of Nigeria.LOL


-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2016 at 17:26
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

Originally posted by NevadaJohn NevadaJohn wrote:

when riding through mud, water, landslides, adverse climate and geography.ย 

I'm sure there are more civilised parts of Nigeria.LOL


Thank you. I also think Nigeria has some more civilised parts too lollz

I have never seen a landslide & quite frankly who rides on a landslide lolllllllll


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2016 at 23:27
Landslides on my old Royal Enfield. Can't avoid them where I was in Nepal and India.
But I much prefer the open road and my Nevada Anniversario!
Did your bike not come with a User Manual?

-------------
Nevada John


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 04:05
I didn't get my bike brand new so the previous owner had misplaced the original manufacturer's manual. Have downloaded a soft copy of owner's and service manuals and they have really beeb helpful.

This forum has been.more helpful


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 08:58
I see.

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Nevada John


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2016 at 09:04
I've ridden in several continents in the N hemisphere but few in the S Hemisphere and only one equatorial region. Never ridden in African continent and at my wizened old age am unlikely to do so. My missus lived in Oyo when she was younger.

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Nevada John


Posted By: beuwiq
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 13:28
Oh awesome. Oyo is like 3hrs from Lagos. Really nice to know

Hope to ride continents when I have the time


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 13:45
If you have the energy and the fortitude and a bit of spare time it's just amazing what you can learn from a forum like this.  In fact this forum is one of the best I've ever come across.


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Nevada John


Posted By: red leader one
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2016 at 15:34
There's even an Ironing board contingent.


Posted By: jmee54
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 13:24
I have been experiencing quite a bit of slippage in my Convert's Torque converter and having just read a bit about it on the Yahoo site discussing problems with certain AT fluids, can anyone recommend a good UK available brand, please?


Posted By: red leader one
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 13:39
http://www.luk.co.uk/content.luk.co.uk/en/products/products.jsp

I bet these would tell you what fluid to use.


Posted By: Mike H
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2016 at 23:15
Sure it's not the clutch slipping?




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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."


Posted By: Oldtag
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 20:03
Hi
2016 v7ii Stone, normal riding conditions ๐Ÿ˜€๐Ÿ˜€


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 11:11
Hi

Oddly, there is no information about the oil required on our databases. Is there anything in the handbook?

Cheers

Tim


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Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Oldtag
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 11:34
Have yet to pick it up, I hear 10/60 on forums,but some say 20/50


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 12:27
Hi

When you get it, let me know what it says and I'll see what we can do.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 14:07
I'm fairly sure 10W60 is the one Guzzi tell you to use. Of course there are always the older members on forums who have always used 20W50 because that's what they grew up with.Wink

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Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 15:18
Hi

Yes, I would assume 10w-60, but in case they have changed it for some reason, I don't want to get it wrong.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 19:28
Yes 10/60 is what MG recommend. I now buy all my lubes from Opie: great service and very competitive prices. After the last dealer service you may remember I drained very black oil from the bevel box.  I've now discovered the reason. Motul make a final drive oil with added graphite and that's what was used!
Although MG say there's no need for additives, there are many who would say that oil with graphite or adding Molyslip makes sense. I'm happy to accept both views on the basis that additives like graphite and Moly are unlikely to do any harm. But we don't have any evidence that they enhance the lubricity of modern oils with their sophistication and nanotechnology. Now here's a thing... does anyone know the torque setting for the drain plugs on, for example, the V7 Stone II engine? Info not in the owners or service manuals and I'm really shy of overtightning because the plugs are a great deal harder than the alloy parts that they screw into! Oh, and incidentally, the washers specified for the bevel box on my Nevada are Dowty washers and they have a habit of weeping. What was the matter with good old alu compression washers I ask! Ah I feel a lot better now even though one of my spark plugs caps has broken up internally and I'm still waiting for replacements from Lake Garda! Ride safe.


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Nevada John


Posted By: Dave P.
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 18:06
During my search for a 20/50 with a high ZDDP content at a reasonable price I found a company called RYE OILS.They do a range of lubricants at the best prices I have seen. I ordered a 25 litre drum of 20/50 and a 5 litre can of EP90 gear oil yesterday and they arrived this afternoon post free.https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/classic-20w50-engine-oil-2/ £54 for 25 litres seems good to me.
The engine oil has a ZDDP content of 1600 ppm which is good for old flat tappet engines.The EP90 is GL3/GL4 rated which unlike GL5 doesn't attack brass or bronze bushes (apparently)

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TO LIVE OUTSIDE THE LAW YOU MUST BE HONEST.

1971 V7 Special. 1972 850GT.
1970 T120 Bonnie. 2009 500 Bullet.


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 19:21
Good for you. Incidentally some of you may know that some oil was leaking from the bevel box on my Nevada 750 Anniversario. Two weeks ago I removed the breather and found it to be completely blocked with rust and grime. After cleaning it out the problem seems all but resolved now. I just hope the over pressurisation hasn't brown one of the two oil seals (input or output). Any ideas anyone?

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Nevada John


Posted By: NevadaJohn
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2017 at 19:22
I mean "blown" not brown! Sorry

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Nevada John


Posted By: DavieL
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 00:43
Q does anyone know the torque setting for the drain plugs on, for example, the V7 Stone II engine?

A A light nip. If it leaks an extra tweek should sort it Wink



Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 09:15
Originally posted by Dave P. Dave P. wrote:

During my search for a 20/50 with a high ZDDP content at a reasonable price I found a company called RYE OILS.They do a range of lubricants at the best prices I have seen. I ordered a 25 litre drum of 20/50 and a 5 litre can of EP90 gear oil yesterday and they arrived this afternoon post free.https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/classic-20w50-engine-oil-2/ £54 for 25 litres seems good to me.
The engine oil has a ZDDP content of 1600 ppm which is good for old flat tappet engines.The EP90 is GL3/GL4 rated which unlike GL5 doesn't attack brass or bronze bushes (apparently)

I've not heard of that oil, but be a bit careful with bargains. It could be that you have a genuine bargain, but a lot of budget oils use recycled basestocks. Also, to save money, there is often less quality control in production, so the oil might not be the grade shown on the can. Like I said, I've not heard of that oil, so I don't know if it is any good, but be careful.

The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass. 

Cheers

Tim




-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Dave P.
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 09:36
Interesting.I'm always keen to know more about the oil available for my old bikes but one is at the mercy of often conflicting information from oil companies and others, published on the web.The average punter like me has no way of establishing which oil is better than which.Would it be reasonable to assume that well-known brands are more expensive in part because one is paying for the name?
I'd assumed,wrongly perhaps,that all oils sold have to comply with industry standards regarding viscosity and general quality.
I've been looking for cheaper oils because of the recent increase in oil prices,if not at the wells then certainly at the counter.


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TO LIVE OUTSIDE THE LAW YOU MUST BE HONEST.

1971 V7 Special. 1972 850GT.
1970 T120 Bonnie. 2009 500 Bullet.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 09:54
Hi

It is a tricky one, as it's not an oil I know, I do not know if that is a recycled oil or about it's quality control. However, for £2 a litre (and I assume they have to be making profit in there somewhere), I would not expect the best oil. 

Here's part of an article I did, the rest relates to synthetics.

Another way of affecting the price of an oil is to alter the additive package. 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Oil-Additive-Package.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Oil-Additive-Package.pdf

The additive pack is a very important part of the oil and can greatly affect the oils properties, but it can be reduced in quality or quantity to reduce the production costs. That can mean that the oil will not last as long or work as well.

Quality control affects the price and quality, the more samples are tested during production, the more it costs, but the more likely it is to be what it says on the label. Some cheap oils have been found to be well out of grade (one of the worst I've heard of was something that was supposed to be a 5w-40 was actually a 20w-40).

Paying for the name is one way of looking at it, the other way is reassurance due to a trusted brand. Yes, Castrol, Shell and Mobil can be expensive, but everyone knows those brands and very few people have ever had problems with them. Some of the smaller brands are less well known and people don't know how good their products will be. That's not to say they won't be fine, but paying an extra few quid for peace of mind can be worth it.

Actual manufacturer approvals can cost a lot of money and that adds to the price of an oil, so a lot of manufacturers sell oils as 'meets the requirements of XXXX' or 'Can be used where XXXX is specified'. You then have to trust the oil manufacturer that the oil is actually suitable for the application, rather than the oil being approved. Don't risk that with cars under warranty, pretty much all manufacturers will void a warranty if the wrong oil is used. Some dealerships are testing the oil before they look at engine issues now, as if the oil is incorrect, they may be able to get out of doing the work.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Dave P.
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 11:44
A tricky one indeed.At the price I've paid, I shall shorten the oil change intervals and hope for the best.If I experience problems I shall make a full confession.The first thing to do is to carry out a compression test and tappet clearance measurement and look out for accelerated wear over the next few thousand miles.An oil pressure check is warranted too.
Thanks for the input.The link to your article on additive packs didn't work by the way and I would like to read it.

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TO LIVE OUTSIDE THE LAW YOU MUST BE HONEST.

1971 V7 Special. 1972 850GT.
1970 T120 Bonnie. 2009 500 Bullet.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2017 at 11:51
Here you go, working link

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-engine-oil-additives-packages-explained.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-engine-oil-additives-packages-explained.aspx

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: agriff
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2017 at 17:18
I have a few litres of Comma semi synthetic 75-90 gear oil I bought from Opie oils a couple of years ago when I had a 1150 GS.
Just bought a 1100 Griso with no service history so want to start from scratch. Do you think this will be ok to use?

cheers
Griff


Posted By: ranton_rambler
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2017 at 10:56
Originally posted by agriff agriff wrote:

I have a few litres of Comma semi synthetic 75-90 gear oil I bought from Opie oils a couple of years ago when I had a 1150 GS.
Just bought a 1100 Griso with no service history so want to start from scratch. Do you think this will be ok to use?

cheers
Griff
I've just put some Castrol 75W-90 synthetic in both gearbox and bevel box of my loop. I think you'll be OK but check recommendations in handbook. I think the small block bevel uses 85W-140 but not sure about modern big blocks.
For the older bikes the handbook says to use molybdenum additive in the bevel box. A lot of people also put it in the gearbox, although I don't personally.


Posted By: agriff
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2017 at 21:47
Thanks for the reply RantonThumbs Up

 Just read this on grisoghetto:

"one note on the gear box oil, the factory specified an odd grade to keep synthetics out of it. The only reason I mention this is I have a failed breva box(bearing cages), that has polymidie bearing cages in it. The synthetic oil used in it destroyed the integrity of the poly bearing cages....Poly bearing cages can be far superior to steel (inferior to bronze)... but they are sensitive to the correct lubricant base.

As far as I know Guzzi stopped using the poly cage bearings, a few years ago and only used them for a short peroid but I know there are Brevas, 2V grisos, and calis with them. I don't know if any 8V machines got a poly cage box. I have seen a few people complain that the poly cage bearings were Guzzi being cheap, but there are some reliability improvements to be had with poly cages...some of the seals in the box were not fully synthetic safe at the time either."

Could probably find an argument for and against anythingConfused. Guess I'll go ahead and use the semi synth 75 90


Posted By: Mike H
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 11:16
That is not uninteresting ...


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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."


Posted By: ranton_rambler
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 12:57
Can't comment on plastic caged bearings - I don't think my 70's bikes have them. I did read something about sticking to GL4 rather than GL5, which I think was related to the GL5 additives attacking bronze and other yellow metals. I think the conclusion was that modern GL5 additive packs are OK.
Anyway, my'72 loop was got GL4/GL5 in now. Can't remember what's in the Spada.


Posted By: iansoady
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2017 at 11:23
Pink oil in my V50 gearbox.....

Posted in the small block section. Anyone have any idea?




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Ian
1982 V50
1952 Norton ES2


Posted By: Mike H
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2017 at 20:01
Red coloured brand that has emulsified?



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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."


Posted By: iansoady
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 10:40
Could be, I've just never seen red oil before. Obviously led a sheltered life.

Red oil probably goes along with abbreviated front mudguard and wrapped exhausts to make a hipstermobile.


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Ian
1982 V50
1952 Norton ES2


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 11:43
It's Redline Shockproof.

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Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: iansoady
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 12:02
Whatever it is it didn't stop the gearbox whining......

Interestingly I drained it into the same container I'd drained the engine oil and it sank to the bottom. It did seem to leave a very sticky film.

It's being replaced by standard stuff with a dollop of Moly.


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Ian
1982 V50
1952 Norton ES2


Posted By: ranton_rambler
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 13:24
Originally posted by iansoady iansoady wrote:

Could be, I've just never seen red oil before. Obviously led a sheltered life.

Red oil probably goes along with abbreviated front mudguard and wrapped exhausts to make a hipstermobile.
There's quite a few red coloured oils around. The engine/gearbox oil used by Honda dealers is red, as is the ATF used in automatic gearboxes and power steering systems. Probably other examples too.
We use blue grease at work. It's a swine to get out of a white shirt!


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 13:27
Originally posted by iansoady iansoady wrote:

Whatever it is it didn't stop the gearbox whining......

It's being replaced by standard stuff with a dollop of Moly.
And I'll bet that doesn't stop the gearbox whining either. The damage has been done, mainly by previous owners running it only half full, because most had come out of the breather.


-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.


Posted By: iansoady
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2017 at 17:02
You're probably right.


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Ian
1982 V50
1952 Norton ES2


Posted By: Petros GR
Date Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 19:52
Hi,

I'd like your advice on engine oil, posting here, as this may interest other (I believe most) forum users.

Make: Moto Guzzi
Model: Griso 1100
Year: 2006
Engine type: (as most Guzzi) pushrod V2, wet sump, 2 valves/cylinder, flat tappets, dry clutch, separate gearbox
Engine displacement: 1064cc 
Performance modifications: none
Driving style: road

Viscosity needed is 10w60, "meeting or exceeding CCMC G-4 A.P.I. SG specifications"


Whats your proposal for a 10w60, that would be frienldy to my flat tappets and camshaft?
Lots of people, including some that I respect their opinion, insist on fully synthetic... 

Additional info: "Griso" is one of the air/oil cooled models. Oil is used as coolant for some spots, like the botom of the piston.
-For some 2005-06 models, one can find something else specified, either on lubricant makers sites, or even in the owners manual... That is due to factorys early publications, probably later (at 2006) found out that this was not correct, and issued a technical bulletin:
- This bulletin specifies 10w60 for "ideal pressure values even at very high engine temperature" for the 850-1100-1200 "Breva", "Griso", "Norge" Models. Same bulletin recomends 10w60 for 750 "breva" and "Nevada" and 1100 "California" (NOT the one with hydraulic tappets), alowing 20w50 as alternative for them. For the 1100 "California" with hydraulic tappets, 5w40 called as "compulsorily used"
- At the time (2006) Agip Racing 4T was the recomended one (I think API SL?). Later, (probably due to some agreement), as Agip changed to ENI, there was a "silent" change (at official service points), and the oil of choise was ENIs i-Ride "MotoGP" (API SG).

Now, this "MotoGP" is obsolete, "silently" replaced by ENIs i-Ride "Racing" thats API SL...

Not very confident that API SL is flat-tappet-friendly, searching for alternatives.


Posted By: oilman
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 08:59
If you want a 10w-60 with the highest ZDDP levels, go for an ester based oil, like the Fuchs Pro S, Millers CFS, Gulf Competition or Red Line.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-662-10w60-engine-oil.aspx" rel="nofollow - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-662-10w60-engine-oil.aspx

They are around 1200-1400ppm ZDDP, so have plenty. They also have better quality basestocks than other oils, so there will be better all round protection than other oils.

Here is an article that will be going on our website soon.

ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) is an additive that is common in oils. It acts as an anti-wear additive by providing a sacrificial layer over metallic surfaces, so the ZDDP wears away rather than the metal. Obviously, that is a good thing for oil to contain as it reduces the amount of wear to the engine. It is not the only important thing in the oil though and too much ZDDP can be problematic.

Many modern engines are specified to use lower ZDDP content oils as higher levels of ZDDP can affect spark plugs and emissions systems. Because of the reduced levels in some modern oils, people often think that modern oils are not suitable for their classic engines, but that is not really the case. 

The oils where the ZDDP levels are reduced meet the API SM and SN specifications and they tend to be thinner grades, which are not the kinds of oils that you would put in a classic vehicle anyway. Oils aimed at classic vehicles will tend to meet the API SL specification, or an earlier API specification, so will not have reduced ZDDP levels. 

Another thing that people do not consider is that when the ZDDP is removed, it is replaced with another anti-wear additive. Just removing an anti-wear additive without replacing it would just make an oil less effective. 

As well as replacing the ZDDP, the basestocks of oils have been improved over the years, giving better film strength and reducing the need for as high additive levels.

Often, the best choice for a high ZDDP content oil is an ester synthetic as many of them have high ZDDP levels and high quality basestocks, so the best all round protection. Sometimes, people are put off them as they do not want to use a synthetic in a classic engine, but synthetics are fine for many classic engines. If you are unsure about yours, just give us a call or send us an email.

I have not come across a problem with too little ZDDP in oils of the correct grade for a classic engine, when referring to reputable oil companies. With budget oils, cutting down the additive pack is a good way of saving production costs, so reducing the ZDDP levels is a way of saving money. With those oils, the basestock will be a lower quality as well. All oils are definitely not equal.

Cheers

Tim


-------------
Use the code GUZZIRIDERS and get 10% Club Discount
Email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
Phone: 01209 202944


Posted By: Brian UK
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 09:26
Thank you. Very informative.
Might put that in it's own thread so that it's easily found.

-------------
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.



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