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Molex Pin Rating

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rbt1548 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 19:07
The new Lego switchgear which was fitted by the P.O. of my T3 has been doing strange things, like lights permanently on with ignition to name but one, I have managed to sort that.
 
 I have also bought a couple of other switches, a Yamaha one for the left side and a Triumph one for the right which I am considering fitting, however they have their own style of connectors and I would like, for simplicity to keep using the Molex connectors that are fitted into the headlight shell.
 
I need to buy some Molex pins and there are plenty sources available, as I am not too clever on the workings of  the deepest, darkest  parts of electricity I was wondering if some of you electrical wizards out there could please tell me which out which amp rating I will require?
 
Thank you !
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ranton_rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 20:19
When I swapped my left hand switch, I cut the plug off and spliced it into the Guzzi harness. I used self-soldering heat shrink connectors. Just bare the ends, push them in and give a blast with the hot air gun. Melts the solder and does the heat shrink all in one operation.
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 20:38
Be careful using those on older wire, they often won't "wet" the wire with solder because of slight oxidation.
It can be very difficult to solder old wires.
Brian.

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rbt1548 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbt1548 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 21:43
I am not going to cut off the plug with the pins attached as some day you never know I might refit the Lego gear.
I am going to re-use the block, I have removed the pins from the block which was fairly easy using a piece of brass tubing, luckily I had used some small tubing on a model bike I had built and had some left. 
I am also just going to crimp the wires to the terminal same as they are at present, I have a good pair of crimping pliers, so hopefully all will be well.
I sorted the lights 'constantly on' that was an extra wire that shouldn't have been there, the last problem with the Lego is the 'park' switch, the wiring in the switch is correct but in the off position the 'park' is on and in the 'park' it is off , and in the 'Headlight' position everything is fine. I have opened the switch and discovered that a few 'ears' on the sliding contact block had been broken off and I was wondering if, because of that, the contacts were not lining up. I will repair the block or make a new one and try it again.
 
The previous owners said that a well know bike electrics company had wired it in for him, if that is the case then the work done was not too good with connectors coming off when moved and a big lump of  wires soldered together to try and get the switchgear to work, leaving only 2 contacts at the ignition switch when there should be 4!
 
I am just not sure what amp rating I should get for the pins, any ideas?

Edited by rbt1548 - 11 Dec 2017 at 21:47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 21:52
Which circuits are involved? Headlights would take 4 amps. Coils about the same (x 2) but pin size should be twice that in an ideal world.
Brian.

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rbt1548 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbt1548 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 22:09
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

Which circuits are involved? Headlights would take 4 amps. Coils about the same (x 2) but pin size should be twice that in an ideal world.
 
On the left side which is the one I am doing it's just lights, horn, indicators etc.
 
Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ranton_rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 22:24
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

Be careful using those on older wire, they often won't "wet" the wire with solder because of slight oxidation.
It can be very difficult to solder old wires.
True, but I cut mine so that the join was under the tank. Seemed to be far enough from the end of the insulation to have stopped any oxidation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 17:31
If you go to Towzatronics.co.uk he is well up on Guzzi he can supply the correct molex to fit your existing have to say he soldered my connectors and good idea to tape the actual connector, any weird lighting gremlins are usually a bad contact on the molex .....Towza does have mail order and was on e-bay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 17:54
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

Be careful using those on older wire, they often won't "wet" the wire with solder because of slight oxidation.
It can be very difficult to solder old wires.


Yes RR makes it sound so easy Big smile - I usually have to scrape every strand shiny clean with a small penknife blade, then dip into liquid flux. Only then I've got a decent chance of getting it to take solder.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote red leader one Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 18:14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbt1548 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 19:19
Thank you to all for the help, much appreciated.
Your boxes have been duly ticked  Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dukedesmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 14:43
I replaced the original switchgear with more modern type, from a Ducati as I had them in the workshop.

I cut off the 'AMP' connectors and rewired the switches with 'Molex' plugs as per the Guzzi originals so that the old stuff can go back on if I ever want to return to standard (there was nothing wrong with my Guzzi switches, I just prefer the more modern ones).

I bought pins and housings from Farnell, the 0.93mm pins and associated housings;  http://uk.farnell.com/search?st=02%2009%202103# they're cheap as chips even if you have to buy 100 at a time.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 19:37
FFor any info on things electronic,  look at rswww.com. Their website is a mine of information. Their prices however...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iansoady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 10:32
I found the cable from the Yam switch I fitted to my V50 wasn't long enough to re-use the Molex connector so had to break into the original lead and use single Japanese type bullets. This did have the advantage that if I'd got the mapping wrong it would be easy to rejig!

The bullets fit neatly in front of the coils so fairly well protected. They're soldered in place and given a coat of silicone grease.
Ian
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