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LM3 rear brake light switch

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Hustler View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 18:47
I've just invested £3 in a new secondhand rear brake light switch and today went to fit it.
It is larger than the current non working switch and shown in the foreground of the picture.
So I start to unscrew the old switch (shown in the photograph with the red plastic cap on the end) and brake fluid starts to leak from the loosened fitting.
This is no great problem really as I can drain the fluid from the non linked rear brake, replace the brake light switch, fill with new fluid, bleed and job done.
But I was wondering if there was a clever way to replace the switch without draining the brake fluid.
I can't think how that could be achieved but just interested really.
Thanks very much. 




Edited by Hustler - 15 Feb 2016 at 18:50
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NeilD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:06
not totally familiar with the LM3, but on the LM 2 the original switch (which youve bought) fits in the splitter manifold  on the lefthand side  of the frame by the lift handle.. the switch you currently have fitted is an aftermarket switch which incorporates the banjo bolt...

have the brakes been de-linked ? just in the process of doing this to my LM 2 and am fitting the set up you have with the switch on the master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Mac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:19
every switch I have changed meant loss of fluid etc
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Hustler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:28
Originally posted by NeilD NeilD wrote:

not totally familiar with the LM3, but on the LM 2 the original switch (which youve bought) fits in the splitter manifold  on the lefthand side  of the frame by the lift handle.. the switch you currently have fitted is an aftermarket switch which incorporates the banjo bolt...

have the brakes been de-linked ? just in the process of doing this to my LM 2 and am fitting the set up you have with the switch on the master cylinder
Thanks very much Neil,
I haven't had the bike long at all and not sure I've even got a lift handle.
Be exciting if I have and will check it out tomorrow.
I'll also have a look round for the splitter manifold while I'm there.
I saw the fitting I've photographed and just assumed that's where the new switch must fit.
My brakes have been de-linked but by a previous owner although personally I'd rather have them linked.
I shall report back tomorrow with my findings and thank you.

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theone&onlymin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:29
I went to this method a few years back so I did.
[IMG][/IMG]

Cheers
Min
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Hustler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:35
Originally posted by Jim Mac Jim Mac wrote:

every switch I have changed meant loss of fluid etc
 
Thanks Jim,
The fluid did look a little mucky in the master cylinder so I'll change that whatever the outcome of this brake switch.



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NeilD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:40
Originally posted by Hustler Hustler wrote:

[
I'll also have a look round for the splitter manifold while I'm there....


doubt you'll have one if they have delinked the brake as i guess they have run a brake hose direct from the rear caliper to the master cylinder.... gutsibits amongst others sell the switch you currently have fitted

steine dinse have online parts lists if you want to see how you brake system was originally laid out :)

http://www.stein-dinse.biz/eliste/index.php


and Min... nice mod :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:43
Originally posted by theone&onlymin theone&onlymin wrote:

I went to this method a few years back so I did.
" />

Cheers
Min
Thanks Min,
That's interesting.
I don't have that setup attached to the frame and I also see you have 2 connectors on top of the brake cyclinder cap whereas I only have the one.
So maybe I'm missing a wire which is why the brake light isn't working and nothing to do with the switch.
Should be in for some exciting times tomorrow in the garage.
 
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Hustler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:46
Originally posted by NeilD NeilD wrote:

Originally posted by Hustler Hustler wrote:

[
I'll also have a look round for the splitter manifold while I'm there....


doubt you'll have one if they have delinked the brake as i guess they have run a brake hose direct from the rear caliper to the master cylinder.... gutsibits amongst others sell the switch you currently have fitted

steine dinse have online parts lists if you want to see how you brake system was originally laid out :)

http://www.stein-dinse.biz/eliste/index.php


and Min... nice mod :)
My new / secondhand switch came from gutsibits.

I'll have a look at the stein-dinse link as well so thanks for that, appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exsmokingbiker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:49
the 2 wires on the top are not brake light the are fluid level indicator in case it runs low
For all your engineering- ultrasonic and aquablasting needs see WWW.bike-aquablasting.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 20:54
Originally posted by exsmokingbiker exsmokingbiker wrote:

the 2 wires on the top are not brake light the are fluid level indicator in case it runs low
Of course, obvious really when you point it out.
Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 22:19
pm  sent brake light sw is behind top of rear left shock on frame downtube there , the switch ontop of master cyl is the low level switch  replacedtop with sealed one as these often cause air to get in they get fine cracks in them the only bikes with switch on master cyl have got de linked brakes
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 22:56
Originally posted by Ken-Guzzibear Ken-Guzzibear wrote:

pm  sent brake light sw is behind top of rear left shock on frame downtube there , the switch ontop of master cyl is the low level switch  replacedtop with sealed one as these often cause air to get in they get fine cracks in them the only bikes with switch on master cyl have got de linked brakes
 
 

Thanks very much Ken.
What a good selection of very helpful replies I've received today.
Let's just hope I'm up to making sense of it all in the garage tomorrow.
I will report back whatever I find though.
Thanks again one and all. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 23:01
useful tips tell you how to reverse bleed the brakes takes seconds big syringe tubing take fluid out of mast cyl, cover top I use cling film fill syringe new fluid fit to nipple flick syringe a laa dr does air goes up ... open nipple at caliper slowly push fluid in till it appears in mast cyl lock off nipple job done ....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hustler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb 2016 at 23:15
Originally posted by Ken-Guzzibear Ken-Guzzibear wrote:

useful tips tell you how to reverse bleed the brakes takes seconds big syringe tubing take fluid out of mast cyl, cover top I use cling film fill syringe new fluid fit to nipple flick syringe a laa dr does air goes up ... open nipple at caliper slowly push fluid in till it appears in mast cyl lock off nipple job done ....
 

I have seen that on the forum although I'll probably use my Mityvac bleeder kit.

Need to nip out and buy some brake fluid first though.
    
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