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iansoady View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iansoady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2023 at 10:13
I'm glad I'm not the only one confused.....
Ian
1952 Norton ES2
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2023 at 12:50
Originally posted by jmee54 jmee54 wrote:

If we use a separate wire from pink at the multi plug to the pink on the hazzards switch all indicators work (Hazzard lights A OK).Clap Suggesting a fault in the pink wire. BUT if we use the meter to check the continuity of the pink wire it peeps saying all is good - yet it is not operating the front Hazzards.Thumbs DownWacko
This makes no sense to us and we can't figure out why.

Does this description make sense?

Which pink wire at which multiplug, 9 on one or 12 on the other?
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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jmee54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jmee54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2023 at 13:37
There are two linked pink wires at the Hazzard switch. One goes to rh indicator lamp the to number 12  on the 15 way socket, then to the rear rh indicator.

Continuity is present from the 15 way socket (both sides) to the Hazzard switch.

BUT if another wire is poked into the 15 way and into the terminal on the hazzard switch the hazzard lights work correctly.

It doesn't make sense!


All of the connections on both 12 and 15 terminal sockets have been tested.

We gave up on the lego switch and eventually had the Domino switch working, except for the flash operating the low beam. (changed the wires on the bulb!) And there is no relay for headlight main beam when the lights are on.


A total ball ache. Building the loom was easy. Stupid wiring colours that are different on every switch - ridiculous. I hate wiring!

And, Ken, if you read this, I know you warned me!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 12:51
I have worked as an auto electrician BUT paid Towza to rewire my V1000, replace fuses with micro ones and relays with the Pyro dan micro relays fitted into a proper fuse/relay box .... I worked out the cost of buying coloured wires, connectors, shrink wrap etc. He charged me around £100 more than it would have cost me to do bearing in mind I would pay retail.

Thing is Towzer refurbished the Alternator and the starter as well as replaced headlamp reflector and foglamps as well as rewired new modern switchgear. 

I totally understand wanting to achieve it yourself but it does require considerable skills in wiring.

The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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jmee54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jmee54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 22:17
Let me take a photo tomorrow. It seems to work how we have it.
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2023 at 17:24
Quote
Continuity is present from the 15 way socket (both sides) to the Hazzard switch.

BUT if another wire is poked into the 15 way and into the terminal on the hazzard switch the hazzard lights work correctly.

It doesn't make sense!

Pink is only the right side indicators, left is-sss, can't remember what colour? Have you tested the hazard switch? Due to it being 'live' all the time, the contacts can fur up and stop conducting. Guess how I know.

Memory (which is unreliable!) informs me that in the case of the OEM relay with only 3 pins, one of them is a 'common' +12V, for both the output contact AND the coil, hence the coil is grounded on the other side by the grey wire to flasher button.

To wire up a 'modern' 4-pin (or 5-pin) relay would need a link adding between say 30 and 85, this will function as the common pin on the old type. Grey wire is then on 86, and output to main beam is 87.

 

"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2023 at 17:34
Originally posted by jmee54 jmee54 wrote:

If we use a separate wire from pink at the multi plug to the pink on the hazzars switch all indicators work (Hazzard lights A OK).Clap Suggesting a fault in the pink wire. BUT if we use the meter to check the continuity of the pink wire it peeps saying all is good - yet it is not operating the front Hazzards.Thumbs DownWacko
This makes no sense to us and we can't figure out why.


Looking at this again, my (old) Fluke 83 will beep at 16 Ohms, or something like that, and this is not much use at all if you are testing for something that should be nearly zero. Your wire could still have resistance in it, albeit low enough to satisfy the DMM, but it's still too much for what the circuit wants.



"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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jmee54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jmee54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb 2023 at 18:08
Thanks for the input. I am stuck with domestic chores for a few days now, leaky roof on H's workshop. New ridge tiles or some such in order! I love working on the top of a pitched roof.ConfusedConfused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jmee54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2023 at 09:36
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jmee54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2023 at 09:43
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