Guzzi 1100 custom build |
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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thanks for the complements guys... As you will see I have graduated from Cardboard to FAD.... Foam Assisted Design ![]() ![]() When i bought the bike it had a QD system on it… while I liked the concept, it was too big and heavy so I sold it on and decided to make an underslung exhaust of my own design. I wanted smaller and much lighter. I started with a mock-up of builders foam to get the shape and angles, and then moddled this in 3D. I did do a basic model on my iPad, but then found I had to pay to output it to a file! really frustrating! so I got my mate to do it and then had all the individual parts laser cut. The baffle plates have staggered holes, which should quieten it down somewhat, but if not, I have a backup plan! Who knows if this will kill any performance? if I lose a few BHP so be it… but you never know! here is a 1 min video of the process ![]() ![]() Edited by Buzzer - 21 Jan 2023 at 10:21 |
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Samz101 ![]() Falcone ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Feb 2020 Location: York uk Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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I’m another in agreement about your engineering skills, but the thing that makes me most envious is I presume you have some kinda heating in your garage/workshop/shed? I darn’t enter mine for fear of frostbite at this time of year!
Enjoying the thread, keep it going. Thanks.
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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yes, the garage is centrally heated, so its quite warm, although of late its been turned down to a level to just keep the chill off. dam energy prices! the workshop at the side has no heating but is warmed to a degree by the garage...
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Apart from a polish the exhaust is welded up and finished. I didn’t want to have distortion and burn through when attaching the baffles, so for these I used TIG braze which worked quite well. The slip joints are held together with springs and to hold these I needed to make some spring hoops. These are actual quite difficult to make to get the bend just right and to a consistent shape. I made a little jig to make these. ![]() |
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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here is everything to go to be powder coated. The swinging arm will be just blasted though as I will be polishing that. In some ways it was a shame to strip the wheels as they were perfect, but black, and I want silver. The powder coater insists they are stripped of the powder coat before I send them, as its so difficult for him to blast it off… in the past I have used industrial paint stripper but its expensive, and a terrible job to do. This time I took them to a local car wheel refurbishes and they put then in their stripping tank for a couple of hours.. they came out fantastic, the pain literally fell of! I left the disks on and they came out without any paint on as well. I will be taking my engine cases in next! last post for a month while we go and get some sun! ![]() |
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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back from holiday, and the first job was a frame repair on a Triumph... I don't do work for other people these days, but one of my best mates asked me if I could repair this Triumph frame for him. How the hell do people think using rebar and welding like that is acceptable? all done now though and once its powder coated it will be like new. ![]() |
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Started the engine build… these are simple engines to build, just a couple of points to remember… There is one special bolt in the crankcase that has an oil feed hole in it. Its also much easier to pop the piston into the bore, and then put the pin in, the rings are very fragile (and expensive!) make sure you have some rag in holes though, those pin circlips have a life of their own! in one of the pictures you can see a plate which holds the flywheel… this is necessary as the alternator nut and crank nut are VERY tight and need torqueing to 190 NM. I would like to thank the local council for the steel to make the engine stand. Leaving a large sign in the hedge at the side of the road for 2 years, I felt I had to re-cycle it 🙂 ![]() |
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johnno ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 19 Jul 2014 Location: loughborough uk Status: Offline Points: 5417 |
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Excellent and orange is the way to go
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1100 sport corsa , Yam R1, guzzi 650tt rider
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krglorioso ![]() Falcone ![]() Joined: 25 May 2021 Location: Burnet. Texas Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Left over paint from the engine stand? Ralph |
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Ralph G.
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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I always have some Orang around ![]() Waiting for a few engine parts so I switched onto the hydraulics. Not sure which front callipers to use yet, so I built both sets. Everything was in great condition so I didn’t change the seals as they were all good. ![]() |
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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I wanted the belts and pulleys to be on show, but I am not keen on open belts… all it takes is one stone! I have made these before out of the original covers. Start by cutting holes with a hole saw, and then cut the oval out. for this I use a saw in the dremel but a saw is OK. Then I marked the profile on some 3mm polycarbonate and cut that to shape. With that in the cut out, I drilled some 3mm holes half in the cover half in the poly. the windows are held in with some 3mm flanged bolts, washers and nylock nuts. I did ad a dab of high strength nutlock and some small neoprene washers as well. I then hydrodipped them. I know that fake carbon is not everyone’s thing but I like it, and when covered with a lacquer its VERY durable and UV stable, unlike the real stuff! The actual process is easy, and the film and activator is cheap. ![]() https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Polishing day… I did the engine cases a few weeks ago. I then set a side a full day to polish the rest of the alloy… its a dirty, hard, and somewhat dangerous job! the swinging arm took ages! I used to do it in the workshop, but it made such a mess I now do it on the drive. I have a 2.5 HP 3000 RPM motor that I use that is an absolute beast and takes no prisoners if you get it wrong. Its mentally draining to do actually, thinking about the angle you present the item to the wheel each time. I sand everything with 400 Mirka Abranet first (if you have not come across that product its a game changer, you will never use wet and dry again!) I use an 8" closed stitched mop and medium compound, followed by a loose mop with fine compound. I use some very fine compound on the stainless. That evening I had a bath as I was so filthy. I actually used fairy liquid to clean me off as ordinary soap doesn’t touch it. Next day I absolutely ached all over! ![]() |
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krglorioso ![]() Falcone ![]() Joined: 25 May 2021 Location: Burnet. Texas Status: Offline Points: 47 |
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Buzzer: The beauty of your work appears linked directly to the amount of time and skill you put into it.
Simply gorgeous. Ralph |
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Ralph G.
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AdrianW ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 893 |
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Agreed.. The quality of work (and skill) is simply staggering... Adrian Bristol UK
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Buzzer ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 09 Dec 2021 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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thanks for the compliments guys
![]() the engine parts I had been waiting for came, and I finished off the belt covers. I also made the housing for the hall effect triggers, the most accurate bit of machining I have done in years as I needed to locate the sensors exactly 135 degrees apart. I will post some pictures later on that. But for now here is the engine! ![]() ![]() |
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