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Griso won't rev

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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2018 at 18:07
Remove the cam position sensor on the LH side of the timing chest, make sure it's clean, not covered in swarf. Don't lose any of the shims under it.

It's hard to think of anything you could have done to cause this, but who knows, you might have dislocated a wire somewhere. I don't supose you moved the tank to check the valve clearances.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mackers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 00:40
"When I open filler cap with bike at tickover lots of fuel splashing around."

Seems to me that the fuel filter has become partly detached.  I read of one where one of the clamps was loose, allowing fuel to leak out into the tank, thereby not producing full pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote agriff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 09:00
Originally posted by Mackers Mackers wrote:

"When I open filler cap with bike at tickover lots of fuel splashing around."

Seems to me that the fuel filter has become partly detached.  I read of one where one of the clamps was loose, allowing fuel to leak out into the tank, thereby not producing full pressure.

I was just going to ask about that. Not being familiar with fuel injection should the fuel be splashing when ignition turned on? Such that need to close cap to stop splashes coming out. Ditto when its ticking over. 
Also does it affect anything if breather pipe at bottom of tank has become detached? Will lift tank and put it back but would rather get to the bottom of this problem 1st if its not related.

How do you get at the fuel filter/pump to check it?

It still starts but cuts out as soon as throttle is touched!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 09:50
You have to take the tank off, then you will see underneath where the pump is fitted.
Sods law always says you have just filled the tank up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote agriff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 10:42
Cheers, I’m going to be away for 2 weeks so will have a go when I get back.
I read that the fuel connector can be a pain to take apart, is there a fix that will make it easier in future ( replacement or extra connector ?)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theoneandonly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 16:13
i'm surprised it ran at all . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote agriff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 19:12
Originally posted by theoneandonly theoneandonly wrote:

i'm surprised it ran at all . 

Thats what I thought. Still unsure if it is this. Does the fuel normally splash around in the tank at prime and tickover? The cutout when touching the throttle is so instant that I'm still wondering if it is fuel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2018 at 22:23
I said that earlier, normally that problem cuts the engine completely. In your case there must just be a small leak, enough to only allow a low pressure dribble to the injectors.
Certainly you should never see fuel swishing around in the tank when the pump is running.

The fuel connector. Fisrt of all disconnect the pump electrics, a 4 way connector under the back of the tank.
Normally we also suggest you then try to start the engine to remove any pressure in the fuel pipe, but you might not need to bother.

Chock the back end of the tank up on a block of wood to get some space.  Then look at that connector. There is a grey ring at the tank end. You need to push this gently away from the tank while holding the pipe to stop that also being pushed. Then when the ring has moved up to the rest of the connector gradually and carefully pull the whole thing away from the tank. It will be tight as there is an O ring sealing things.
The red right angle coming out of the tank can be broken, so be gentle, but these days that part is available seperately, you no longer have to buy a complete pump assembly.Shocked

Then empty the tank, undo the 8(?) little bolts round the flange and pull the whole thing out. You might need to wiggle things a bit.

You will probably find a half plastic filter in there which leaks, but it could also be one of the pipes coming adrift.
Replace with a Mahle KL145 all metal filter (other equivalents are also available, UFI make one).

You will find proprietry spring metal clips holding the flexible pipes on. They are called Oetiker clips, but you need a special tool to  fit them. I used the clamp type jubilee pipe clips (this type). Been there for several years so far and no probems. Just get the right diameter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iansoady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 10:15
I quite like those oetiker (never heard the name before) clamps as they conform much more closely to the hose than worm drive types. You can fit them with a pair of end cutters (smaller sizes) or carpenter's pincers (larger ones) and flip them off easily with a scriber or similar.

Yoiu do have to get exactly the right size though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 10:37
Don't use the worm drive type under any circumstances on small diameter tubing.

The type I use can be reused time and time again, fit perfectly and are secure. Also very easy to fit.

The OEM type are just cheap and fast with the right tool for factory assembly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote agriff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 10:41
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

Certainly you should never see fuel swishing around in the tank when the pump is running.
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Well thats good to know, makes me more confident that this is the problem

Thanks Brian for the instructions and link, and good to know you no longer have to buy complete pump assembly if I have an accident.

Does the pump need a gasket or sealant when replacing?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 10:53
As long as you are careful the rubber gasket round the pump flange can also be used again.
You will need a 7mm socket to remove the little bolts.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote agriff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:01
Just started on this again. 

1st the "silent block" tank rubber snapped, both sides seem to have perished rubber. So guess I will have to take tank off with battery mount and drill the screws out from the tank and frame.
Next I cant get the fuel connector to budge a mm, tried refitting battery to take pressure off. Is it possible to cut the hose and use a fuel joiner with screw clips that can be unscrewed to make it easier in future to disconnect?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:25
http://youtu.be/4SYAS5xsUlo
This gives an idea.
You have to push the body of the union and pull back on the white collar. 
Also you can get special pliers just search e bay for Lancia/fiat fuel injection tool.
3 pliers in a set green ones do the trick.
Also ford use same spigot on fiesta’s part number 1330328 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:29
Get yourself a set of fuel line disconnect pliers like these:-


DARN it - too slow


Edited by Tris - 15 Jun 2018 at 11:32
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