V1000 Dizzy removal |
Post Reply |
Author | |
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 07:22 |
Gents,
Seems I need to remove and re-install my dizzy. I had a late look last night in the manual and it says you can't remove it with the engine in situ. Can anyone confirm this is definitely the case please? If it is, please break it to me gently! Regards Mark
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
Gfiver
Senior Member Joined: 26 May 2017 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 121 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Relax. No problem removing the Dizzy. No need to remove much except the R/H carb for easy access.
|
|
jpc
Senior Member Joined: 06 Oct 2016 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 651 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
With the dizzy out of the way, if you have the original airbox setup, the opportunity to put in a new air filter is not to be missed !
|
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Phew thanks guys! I have a LM type breather and K & Ns at the mo.
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Here y go set engine to TDC on cyl D = rhs .... Tank off, carbs off , undo the bolt on rhs the one you can see, I have a long handles 13mm spanner i get in from opposite side helps to have the C clamp that holds it so the open end is up on the left the factory tool is a 13mm spanner bent at a right angle with long handle but I have used my long spanner for years, it is fiddly .... hope this helps to be fait The Haynes manual ig good but the either blue or yellow covered Guzzi one covering the V1000 Spads/G5/Convert with added bits for Le Mans and with the blue one Cali 2 fills in the gaps .... once you get TDC make sure the flywheel marks line up I overpainted them in white and yellow for S (left) Hope this helps
|
|
The Older i Get, The Better I Was
|
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks for all replies so far chaps. Bit confused though.
The manual shows D as RH piston at TDC.
Then line 2 as retarded timing mark and mark 4 as advance timing
mark. As they are both to the one side
of the TDC mark, how can one be retarded and the other advanced? Surely they can only both be the same (retarded
or advanced) but varying degrees? I need to adjust the meshing of my dizzy gears with the
flywheel, and the Haynes manual states get RH piston on the comp stroke and the
static timing mark aligned but it doesn’t say which this mark is? Looking at another thread I believe the static timing mark
is not the line directly above the D but the one above it? In my case this would be the 4 line. BTW my D
& S don’t have lines, just the letter. Am I OK so far please chaps? Regards as always Mark |
|
Mark Serj
|
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just looked at the Pete Roper guide and the static timing mark is the line ABOVE D & S
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
jpc
Senior Member Joined: 06 Oct 2016 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 651 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Semantics ! Retarded = Initial advance (lines 2 & 3) Advanced = Maximum advance (lines 4 & 5) So they're both on the same side of the TDC mark. To re-time the dizzy, set the flywheel at line 2 with RH cylinder on compression stroke, then push in the dizzy so that, when fully in, the RH (top) points can be opened by rotating the dizzy body. You can't time the ignition with only the TDC marks (D & S), you need the lines ! To guide you, the interval between 2 flywheel teeth is 3.75°. Initial advance for the V1000 is 2°, so a bit more than 1/2 interval above D or S.
|
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks jpc, will get amongst it as soon as time allows!
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
Normski
Senior Member Joined: 28 Jan 2015 Location: Devon Status: Offline Points: 110 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Before you move/remove the distributor body take the cap off and have a good look at how things line up, you don't say whether you have points or electronic but you should be able to find or mark a reference point/line. (It's best to set the engine to the static timing mark on RH cylinder - that's the first line just above the D mark) If on points the points cam should be just about to or just starting to open the points for the RH cylinder then.Also mark the position of the distributor body relative to the crankcase.
Now with the clamp removed you can lift out the distributor.
Be aware that the shaft will 'skew' as you pull the distributor out and it will need to be re inserted in a position which allows for it to skew again on the way back in. Refit and realign the body to crankcase mark and with this done see how things line up within the distributor, if you've been lucky first time then that will also line up. Provided that you don't turn the engine at all whilst distributor is off then returning it so those points/marks made earlier line up again will mean you have correctly reinstalled it. If wrong it will be noticeable because it will be wrong by a whole tooth of the gear so it's either right or wrong. If you get it wrong first time just lift up until free of the drive gear,turn the distributor shaft a bit in the direction which will correct the error then reinsert to try again,to be correct both the body to crankcase mark and the marks within the distributor must line up.
Edited by Normski - 12 Mar 2019 at 22:40 |
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks to everyone for help. Its very similar to my Stag & in some respects to an early Wing I restored a few years ago. Hope to get an hour tonight at about 10pm to at least get it installed correctly.
Regards
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
FlyingTiger
Senior Member Joined: 22 Sep 2018 Location: BRISTOL Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Dizzy re-installed OK and all timed up nicely so may get to start her up this weekend. I did the valve clearances at the same time. With the exception of the RH inlet having 5 thou' clearance, the remainder only had a couple at best!
Cheers for now
|
|
Mark Serj
|
|
Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
|
|
GUZZIPETE
Senior Member Joined: 29 Jul 2016 Location: Devon Status: Offline Points: 198 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Life is made much easier on this job with a crows foot spanner or similar. I sacrificed an old 13mm ring spanner by cutting the end off and welding it on at 90 degrees to the end of old Tee handle screwdriver that I bought in 1978 for getting crankcase screws out of the Jap bikes back in the day. I think they call it up-cycling now?
But if you scribe a line on the flange of the distributor base corresponding with one on the block and put a fine line with thin marker on the shaft and baseplate you shouldn't go wrong. As Normski says, bear in mind the 'skew' as it goes back in by rotating the shaft the opposite way one tooth, anti clockwise from memory?
|
|
1971 Moto Guzzi V7 Special
1974 Laverda 750 SF2 1979 Laverda 3CL |
|
Chris950s
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2018 Location: Essex Status: Offline Points: 378 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Chris and Karen - Essex
2011 Stelvio NTX, 1974 950S (750S replica nearly rebuilt!), 1966 Triumph T100SS 58 years young this year! |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |