Starting troubles for a noob |
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DavidF
Falcone Joined: 09 Mar 2018 Location: Vermont Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Posted: 11 Mar 2018 at 17:01 |
Hello and thanks for considering the first of what promise to be many questions. I just acquired a 78 Convert. My plan is to make it a solid daily rider, nothing fancy. But first I must start it. It started when I bought it. I can start it with a jump start. But using just the starter switch I get a lot of clicks and no effort to turn over. The battery is a new BikeMaster 53030. Any ideas?
David
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DavidF
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Jim Mac
Moderator Group Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: Edinburgh Status: Offline Points: 3202 |
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See the click no crank thread here
[URL= ][/URL]http://www.guzziriders.org/click-no-crank_topic23.html Great bike the Convert. You will enjoy it - when you can get it started |
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V85 TT Trzvel BMW R45
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Jerry atric
Senior Member Joined: 24 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Status: Offline Points: 3367 |
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Welcome. I think Jim Mac has already answered your question. Good luck with your convert.
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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When you say a lot of clicks, do you mean constant like a machine gun? Or do you mean a click every time you press the start button?The former is usually a discharged battery, the latter is covered in the other topic mentioned above.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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DavidF
Falcone Joined: 09 Mar 2018 Location: Vermont Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Thanks for the replies. I had found the click no crank thread. There is a lot of good hints in here.
When I press the starter there is a big clunk and then a lot of clicks like a machine gun going fast and then slowing down. Each time I try to start, slower clicks. Then I charge the battery and it happens again. When I jump start with a spare car battery hooked up to the existing bike battery, it fires right up. My guess it is a bad battery. The battery appears new but it may have been sitting for years. The bike was last inspected in 2003. It shows 15k on the odometer.
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DavidF
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magwa
Senior Member Joined: 25 Mar 2017 Location: Wales uk Status: Offline Points: 310 |
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Well welcome to Italian electrics.
I've followed the click no crank thread religiously. I decided to sell the bike and buy a triumph. good luck and welcome |
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Magwa
2002 Triumph Sprint ST 1986 Morgan 4/4 1968 mobylette |
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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This is nothing to do with Italian electrics, it's clearly a dud battery.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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It is not a black art, thing is with elektrikery it is logical and reasonably simple the weak point always has been the start relay.
Easy to replace with a modern micro relay and fixed base have a spare even the good ones can fail. If the battery connections are slightly off or the earth has become loose/corroded it will not start the beast. The starter on the older bikes Bosch is very robust BUT it is as big as one on a Merc Van. Possible other reasons for it not throwing over From My personal experience over the last 26+ yrs..... 99% of the time it IS the start relay Dirty connection on Battery Earth lead they put it to Battery tray and that can crack causing bad earth The Ceramic fuses can fail you have to actually take them out clean the contact replace, If you consider replacing the relay with modern one (Pyro Dan is your man) then consider replacing fuses with blade type ones. Rarely the start solenoid BUT look at the starter to solenoid you will see what is an earth braid between them only a few mm from solenoid to starter I have had that crack took me ages to find it. It is worth having the starter and solenoid re furbished there are often Bosch service agents and ours in Leics charges around £70 for a refurb well worth it as a set of brushes from Guzzi are expensive, daft as older BMW use same parts and are way cheaper BUT a real difficult job to do the tools cost too much. The only other weak point is the 3 way block at the headlamp and the actual switch innards can corrode if the bike has stood. As in your case it fires up with a boost then that my friend is a duff battery ......on that note there are many options BUT as I and others found out with a V1000 the OEM is best .....it quite simply works. |
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Bomber one
Falcone Joined: 08 Jun 2018 Location: Mk45 Status: Offline Points: 63 |
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hi Ken,
Need a new battery for my v1000. Currently has 28ah exide (model no. Rubbed off) which has lasted 5 yrs. When I looked on Tayna for a replacement for guzzi model it had the polarity positions opposite. My positive is front left, negative is rear left. Do you know if this is std or modified please? Thanks Frank
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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If that's the way the battery cables are fitted, then that's the type of battery you need to buy unless you want to alter the cables. Tayna will have a battery of the right dimentions (measure yours) and the same terminals.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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jefrs
Senior Member Joined: 12 Aug 2018 Location: West Berkshire Status: Offline Points: 333 |
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The code on a battery tells the stockist many things, size & shape, amp-hours, and position of terminals - left & right, front or back, side or top connection. The chap told me but I promptly forgot. There's only two or three companies that actually make these batteries, one is in South Africa. All the other brands are all re-badge jobs. You might want brand X but brand Y will be identical. Best bet is to take the old dead battery to a stockist and declare, "I want one of these".
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