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1000se 1991 Frint Wheel Spacer

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theone&onlymin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2016 at 18:35
Has this just happened as it is not a new bike ?

Let me tell you my recent episode...

About 6 weeks ago after having the front wheel out the G5 felt a bit weird when I got on it. Tried tyre pressures, checked it for spinning true, checked the wheel bearings by give the wheel a shake with it up in the air, steering head bearings. Yep all OK.
Any way yesterday I thought I'd take the wheel out and check everything. Nothing noticeable so I put it back together.but the axle wouldn't sit flush with the slider like it normally does. My nearside disc was really close to the fork.
So I loosened it off again along with the pinch bolt and there was a creak. And it all lined up like normal so it did.
Now I must have had my front wheel out at least twice a year for the past 18 years or so. The last time I put it in I didn't have to shim out the caliper to centralize it which I thought a bit weird at the time. After the creak I had to dig out my shims.
Out on the road the handling is back to its normal predictable sweet self.

Cheers
Min
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2016 at 22:50
Originally posted by Rollo Rollo wrote:

Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:


Both bearings should be pressed fully into the recess in the hub, the internal spacer should be exactly the right length to support the bearing inners.


Thank you for your reply Brian, much appreciated.

Yes I agree that is the theory and could be correct but in practice may result in pressure on the inner races. The hubs are bolted together which adds another variable to the distance between the bearings. I have always fully driven home the bearing retained by the circlip if there is one and then at the other end driven the bearing in until it lightly meets the inner spacer. That way all the play is removed but the bearings can turn freely with the spacer. At present the bearings are hard to turn with my finger and feel as if they have been driven together too hard. I am hoping that with correct fitment the gap to the fork leg will be more acceptable.


Yeah but no but, you have to do up the spindle nut to the required torque and that's squeezing it all together quite consideraby. So what's required then is that the outer races can align themselves sideways, so that there is no sideways pressure on the ball bearings, which you definitely don't want.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guzzi4cats Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2016 at 19:38
I had a similar problem with my 1000SE several years back, when I noticed that the wheel was closer to one fork leg than the other. I began measuring spacers etc, slowly going nuts, couldn't really believe that the size was wrong, eventually spoke to a Guzzi mechanic who thought for a bit and asked if the fork leg would move sideways on the spindle, which of course it would. In short, all it needed was to make the fork legs exactly parallel, thereby making the gap between disc and fork leg equal on both sides, tighten clamps on fork legs and finally tighten the large spindle nut. I was extremely grateful to that guy from Wessons for preserving my sanity, for a bit longer, anyway.
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Rollo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov 2016 at 20:39
Thank you for your experience G4Cs. I have now fitted new wheel bearings to ensure the circliped bearing is fully home to a clean seat. Awaiting delivery of fork seals to fit before I bolt the wheel back in and see if there has been an improvement. Not so worried about exactly equal gaps; just think the 0.7mm gap I had on the offside was too small. Hopefully the new bearings will be all that is required.
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 14:34
Forgotten about that, sideways 'play' of one slider, 'course it's opposite to the side where the nut is.

Which is why (just remembered) some instructions say when refitting the front wheel, leave the lower clamps loose and bounce the forks up and down a few times, then tighten them up. I just generally pull it tho.

"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 17:09
I've always bounced the forks before doing up the pinch bolt.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BondEquipe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 22:49
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

I've always bounced the forks before doing up the pinch bolt.

Yep, one of those routines that I just do without thinking. It's easy to assume everyone was  taught the same way but maybe not anymore!
Stephen
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 23:17
Taught? You mean somone taught you? Shocked



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iceni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iceni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 07:42
[QUOTE=Mike H]Taught? You mean somone taught you? Shocked

I must have been taught - I remember my dad frequently saying "Let that be a lesson to you"!

 
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Rollo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 08:06
Originally posted by BondEquipe BondEquipe wrote:

Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:


I've always bounced the forks before doing up the pinch bolt.


Yep, one of those routines that I just do without thinking. It's easy to assume everyone was  taught the same way but maybe not anymore!


That has always been my routine too. For good measure, prior to that and while the front is still off the ground I spin the front wheel by hand and apply the front brake sharply a few times which helps.

This won't alter the gap between the fork leg and the brake disc at the offside, (the nut end on mine) as that is already gripped by the nut/axle.

Hopefully I have now sorted things. I'm thinking that due to the way the bike came into being the gaps at the front forks of all spoked 1000s models are tighter than would be the case with a blank design sheet. Initially designed with narrower cast wheels as the brief, the sliders are shaved to allow fitment of the wider spoked hub. Would be really good if I could see another 1000s with spoked wheels to compare with mine or to speak to another owner.

Many thanks for your replies, Mark.
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov 2016 at 08:16
For good measure, prior to that and while the front is still off the ground I spin the front wheel by hand and apply the front brake sharply a few times which helps.
That dates back to drum brakes to centre them.
Brian.

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Rollo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2016 at 19:48
Seals and dust covers arrived yesterday so got the forks stripped and back on the bike today. Allowed me to get the front wheel back in. The gap either side of the discs is now even so I am pleased. All good. Thank you for your inputs.
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