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07 Cali Vintage Brake Fluid Change

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Gugge View Drop Down
Guzzino
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    Posted: 20 Jun 2014 at 16:18
Hi, I am just about to change all my brake fluid as part of the 24k service and just seeking advice. I plan to to take the reservoir cover off, fit a hose to the bleed nipple on the caliper and open it, then pump the brake lever until all fluid has drained into the chosen receptacle.  Then tighten the nipple, fill the reservoir, then bleed the nipple to eliminate air, then finally tighten the nipple and top up reservoir.

Then do the same with the left/rear brake system, doing the front caliper first, then the rear.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

PS. Overuse of the "n" word is purely intentional
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Jim Mac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Mac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2014 at 16:21
the only thing different I do is use a syringe to drain the reservoir first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2014 at 20:23
I never pump the system empty I always add new fluid and keep pumping until I see the lighter coulered new fluid coming out the other end. Saves getting air in the system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2014 at 20:59
OR empty sys and use a syringe to fill FROM the caliper upwards easy to do BUT make very sure the tank ect is well protected fluid squirts a fair way and is ver very corrosive
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2014 at 18:22
Personally I use Brian's method, I also open then close the nipple each time, that is, closing before lever/pedal is released. Clear plastic bleed tube secured in a jar (e.g. through a hole in a screw-top lid) and jar held higher than caliper, if not higher or same height as master reservoir. As said repeat and keep topping up reservoir until clean fluid appears in the tube. Job's a good 'un...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Mac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2014 at 18:46
Prefer kens method, less fuss
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2014 at 21:12
Not only less fuss BUT no way do you get an air bubble behind the caliper common on older bikes, and it takes less then a minute to do the front brake
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2014 at 22:10
But if you do it my way you never get any air in it.
 
However the syringe method is far better if filling from empty.
 
On the car I would use a pressure system to blow the old fluid out with new, Ezibleed is one such system. If I could get a spare M/C cap I would do the same on the bike. Such a shame they are always non standard. So easy and mess free.


Edited by Brian UK - 23 Jun 2014 at 08:14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2014 at 23:00
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:

But if you do it my way you never get any air in it.
   
Yes if you're just replacing old fluid with new, no way should any bubbles be getting in. E.g. must never let the reservoir 'run dry'. And DO NOT 'empty' the system first!
  
   
When you buy a bottle of new fluid, let it stand a day or so first in case any bubbles have formed in it due to it being shaken about in transit bringing it home.
 
 


Edited by Mike H - 23 Jun 2014 at 23:01
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gugge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 14:42
Thanks for all the advice; I went for the Brian methodology on the front right caliper and all went to plan. But I started to do the front left/rear brakes and when I took the left side panel off the bike, I was confronted with the "balancing" valve, for want of a better word, which I assume divides the brake pressure between front and rear? But on it was yet another bleed nipple.  

The manual makes no mention of this nipple when changing the brake fluid or bleeding the brakes; but do I need to bleed it or just forget about it?  The manual also says I should remove the rear caliper and hold it horizontally, but why do that to the rear one and not the front ones?  

All very cerebrally challenging on this barmy Saturday afternoon.  Think I'll lie down for half an hour.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 16:51
Well if you use the reverse bleed method it is easy peay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 19:17
Not sure if my manifold has a nipple ~ I presume not, so I just bleed front & rear calipers alternately. Start with rear I think.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gianni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2014 at 16:28
I suggest that one ALWAYS installs new pads before bleeding the brakes. If the existing ones are still serviceable then swap back after bleeding.

Reasoning is that if you bleed with worn pads and top up the reservoir, when new pads are installed it is possible to lock the system up because the calliper pistons move back and force fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir and can fill it completely - and as we know brake fluid is incompressible.

Source - I learnt the hard way with my Quota!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2014 at 18:30
He's right, he's not wrong Big smile
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