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stelvio 2011 NTX electrickery

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Richard Hyatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Hyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 17:54
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 21:52
Originally posted by swervyruss swervyruss wrote:

Just pulled the plugs again and they are currently
NGK R-  CR8EKB

Good, so you also have the correct 5k plug caps.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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Doc. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 05:09
Originally posted by Richard Hyatt Richard Hyatt wrote:

This is always a useful site with plug types and gaps and Imodium options.

Cool, help your Engine run smoothly, and stop diarrhea!
Doc out!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 07:45
Could end up with a constipated engine though.
Brian.

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Tris View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2020 at 10:12
A search of the Aprila sites is worth the effort as they have a very closely related dash to whats on the Stelvio

They helped when I was wrestling with the dash on the Big Breva, which while different, gave me some pointers

My issue with the LCD was definitely vibration triggered. It worked randomly until it finally died

Tris

PS
If you come across a LCD that fits please let us know as the only solution I found was to cannibalise a LCD from another dash


Edited by Tris - 03 Jul 2020 at 10:16
2017 V9 Roamer
2005 Breva 1100 - sold
1994 California - sold
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Doc. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2020 at 16:57
I would expect the LCD part itself to be a 'generic' part, with a standard connector.
Should be readily available, you'd just need to get someone to fit it.
Doc out!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swervyruss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2020 at 12:28
update on this story - the might one and only Min nailed it. I took the side panels off, left first and replaced HT leads and connections to the coil - I couldn't help myself but fire her up and with in 5 seconds the dash blanked. I picked myself up acknowledging that id only done half a job and set to work on the other side, this time I noticed that the coil connection was not tight, and it was rusty, I replaced everything, and cleaning it up and went for a test ride, no panels and indicator cable flapping everywhere,
the dash was busy telling me that the bike had no indicators when after a couple of miles I realized- the LCD was still working, 5 miles then 10.  Its fixed- like a miracle cure. One dodgy connection to the RH coil was the culprit. 
So Im very happy to now only have to worry about roller cams - thats for all the support and advise guys !!    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2020 at 12:48
It was Baldrick who told me, so there's where the credit is due so it is....

Cheers
Min
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2020 at 14:18
Very interesting this thread ...... noisy ht ...wo would have guessed that one ..... now you know why it is referred to as "Elektrikery" ....they are devious gremlins in there , to coin a phrase, "So they are!"
The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OldJohnboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2020 at 17:47
Originally posted by theone&onlymin theone&onlymin wrote:

It was Baldrick who told me, so there's where the credit is due so it is....

Cheers
Min

So the 'thank you' biscuits are on the way to Baldrick? Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2020 at 22:14
Glad you sorted it, and kudos to Baldrick.

One tip for the Coil/HT Lead connections.
De-grease the Lead, the inside of the Rubber Boot, and the outside of the Coil Socket thoroughly, Carb Cleaner/IPA or similar.

When fitting the HT Lead, pull the Boot down from the end by a couple of inches, then shove the Terminal fully into the Coil Socket, making sure it bottoms out.

Slide the Boot up the Lead, but stop when the top just starts to go over the end of the Coil Socket.

Cable Tie the lower end of the Boot to the Lead tightly.

Now pull the top of the Boot up over the Coil Socket, and Cable Tie it tight.

You might need another pair of Hands to help.

This stretches the Boot slightly, and keeps a constant positive tension on the Lead, keeping it nice and secure.

A bit of ACF-50 (or similar) on the Terminal before fitting will prevent corrosion.
Don't get it anywhere else though, or the Boot won't grip.
Doc out!

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