stelvio 2011 NTX electrickery |
Post Reply | Page <123 |
Author | |
Richard Hyatt
Senior Member Joined: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Dorset Status: Offline Points: 1097 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
This is always a useful site with plug types and gaps and Imodium options
|
|
Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Good, so you also have the correct 5k plug caps.
|
|
Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
|
Doc.
Senior Member Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Location: South Bucks Status: Offline Points: 639 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Cool, help your Engine run smoothly, and stop diarrhea! |
|
Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Could end up with a constipated engine though.
|
|
Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
|
Tris
Senior Member Joined: 01 Jun 2015 Location: Lincolnshire Status: Offline Points: 406 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A search of the Aprila sites is worth the effort as they have a very closely related dash to whats on the Stelvio
They helped when I was wrestling with the dash on the Big Breva, which while different, gave me some pointers My issue with the LCD was definitely vibration triggered. It worked randomly until it finally died Tris PS If you come across a LCD that fits please let us know as the only solution I found was to cannibalise a LCD from another dash
Edited by Tris - 03 Jul 2020 at 10:16 |
|
2017 V9 Roamer
2005 Breva 1100 - sold 1994 California - sold |
|
Doc.
Senior Member Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Location: South Bucks Status: Offline Points: 639 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I would expect the LCD part itself to be a 'generic' part, with a standard connector.
Should be readily available, you'd just need to get someone to fit it.
|
|
swervyruss
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2019 Location: leicester Status: Offline Points: 8 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
update on this story - the might one and only Min nailed it. I took the side panels off, left first and replaced HT leads and connections to the coil - I couldn't help myself but fire her up and with in 5 seconds the dash blanked. I picked myself up acknowledging that id only done half a job and set to work on the other side, this time I noticed that the coil connection was not tight, and it was rusty, I replaced everything, and cleaning it up and went for a test ride, no panels and indicator cable flapping everywhere,
the dash was busy telling me that the bike had no indicators when after a couple of miles I realized- the LCD was still working, 5 miles then 10. Its fixed- like a miracle cure. One dodgy connection to the RH coil was the culprit. So Im very happy to now only have to worry about roller cams - thats for all the support and advise guys !!
|
|
theone&onlymin
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2072 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It was Baldrick who told me, so there's where the credit is due so it is....
Cheers Min
|
|
Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Very interesting this thread ...... noisy ht ...wo would have guessed that one ..... now you know why it is referred to as "Elektrikery" ....they are devious gremlins in there , to coin a phrase, "So they are!"
|
|
The Older i Get, The Better I Was
|
|
OldJohnboy
Senior Member Joined: 16 May 2014 Location: The Hemingfords Status: Offline Points: 376 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
So the 'thank you' biscuits are on the way to Baldrick?
|
|
Doc.
Senior Member Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Location: South Bucks Status: Offline Points: 639 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Glad you sorted it, and kudos to Baldrick.
One tip for the Coil/HT Lead connections. De-grease the Lead, the inside of the Rubber Boot, and the outside of the Coil Socket thoroughly, Carb Cleaner/IPA or similar. When fitting the HT Lead, pull the Boot down from the end by a couple of inches, then shove the Terminal fully into the Coil Socket, making sure it bottoms out. Slide the Boot up the Lead, but stop when the top just starts to go over the end of the Coil Socket. Cable Tie the lower end of the Boot to the Lead tightly. Now pull the top of the Boot up over the Coil Socket, and Cable Tie it tight. You might need another pair of Hands to help. This stretches the Boot slightly, and keeps a constant positive tension on the Lead, keeping it nice and secure. A bit of ACF-50 (or similar) on the Terminal before fitting will prevent corrosion. Don't get it anywhere else though, or the Boot won't grip. |
|
Post Reply | Page <123 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |