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V7 III Carbon - Centre Stand

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Diavolo View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 May 2019 at 22:34
I’m about to fit a new Moto Guzzi centre stand on my bike. Part of the instructions say remove the clamp fixing the canister.

I can see a round canister just above the side stand in the middle but what does it do/its function?

I like the way they refer to the side stand as a ‘lateral jack’.

I can see this is going to be fun.

Thanks in anticipation.
The squeaky wheel gets the oil.
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nab301 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nab301 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 22:47
 I don't have a V7 but I guess it's a fuel vapour recovery canister ?

Edited by nab301 - 24 May 2019 at 21:23
Nigel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diavolo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2019 at 22:58
Many Thanks for the prompt reply Nigel. I just did a search using your terms and it came up with a photograph showing the very same beast.

Much appreciated.

Robert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diavolo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2019 at 00:24
Update. Fitted the factory stand today. What a chore. Okay, here’s the highs and lows in case anybody else is thinking of fitting one.

First, the part number. It is 2S00013.

The leaflet that comes with it describes it as: “Assembly Kit Central Stand Moto Guzzi V7 III MY 2017”. It will fit the Stone and all other iterations in the V7 III range.

There is no component list. You have to deduce what components come with it from the peculiar, multi lingual instructions. There is however a web site which shows you all the components.

Throughout the instruction leaflet the side stand and centre stand have different names to keep you on your toes. Example: “Lateral Jack” and for the Greeks “Toy Kit!”

Tools required: 

Torque wrench - preferably small handle rated up to 60nm or above if you wish.

Hexagon socket cap sockets and ratchet.

13 & 15 mm open end or ring spanners for bolts and locknuts.

Any old scissor jack or blocks of wood. Use to hold the stand up while aligning the main bolt.

Waterproof grease

Blue thread locking liquid.

Lots of patience and cups of tea.

An extra pair of hands if possible - I worked alone.

Some home made gadget to fit the springs. I used a vice and a piece of wood with washing line wire attached to the springs and wood and just pulled them on. 

It is advised to remove both silencers. There is no need to touch the exhausts at the manifold.
Removing both will give you more room to see what you are doing and get access to the nuts and bolts. It is necessary to remove the left silencer - clutch side - to exchange the bracket that acts as a stop for the centre stand.

Unless you have a magic socket you will need to take off the gear change mechanism from the spline  - just one screw - to get access to one of the frame bolts.

A big beef. Some bean counter at MG has decided to do away with the nut for what MG call the  ‘traverse support bolt’. What they have done is threaded the frame - not shown on leaflet which shows bolt and nut! This means there’s no wiggling about with the bolt or sticking a screwdriver through the hole to line it up. It is a pain to get it spot on in order for the bolt to be screwed in from the opposite side. There are four holes that have to be aligned. I have a photo of the bolt in situ sans nut. There’s about two threads exposed.Oh...and the main bolt is very, very tight to undo. From looking at the thread it would appear they have used some red thread locker! Remove residue with a blow torch and wire brush when off the bike.

The major problem is getting the powder coated unit to fit in the place of the old traverse support bar. The trick is: offer it up vertically by ensuring that it is as far back to the rear wheel as possible, then slide it forward. I didn’t need to do any grinding or sanding down. If you try to lift it up from the bottom away from the rear wheel it will be difficult to align.

The rubber headed bolt to stop the stand hitting the exhaust does not go all the way through the frame. I found it useful to use a half nut and a full nut so I could get it as low as possible.

The vapour recovery canister can be a pain because it gets in the way when fitting the stand. Make sure you use a tie-wrap when finished. Also ensure the side stand stop switch wires are not fouling anywhere. It’s quite close to the exhaust.

It’s worth coating the inner spring with a good dollop of grease. Ditto the outside when finished. Likewise a good dollop of grease on the bolt with the cotter/split pin. It is plain steel.

There is a rubber tube that fits over the springs to protect them. I’m going to use a piece of hosepipe to cover the spring on the side stand which is equally exposed.

Any questions, just ask.

Tomorrow, I fit the engine guards.

Hope you all have a pleasant Bank Holiday

Ride Safe.

Robert

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Diavolo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Diavolo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2019 at 00:32
Forgot! Many Thanks to the members who gave advice.

Hug
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2019 at 19:16
Congratulations. Thumbs UpThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 9fingers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2021 at 12:16
I installed the factory center stand last weekend on my V7III and DEARLY wish I had read this posting first. An extremely nasty job but you describe the process perfectly! I struggled for quite some time, using an automotive jack to try to force the stand between the frame rails and then decided I would need to loosen the rails and spread them a few mm, which did the trick. And I too was annoyed that they left off that right side nut........very difficult to get that long bolt through and started on the threads. SO glad it is done and it does work perfectly. Now on to getting some Agostini pipes! Thanks for the posting.
Scott in NJ, USA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Hyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2021 at 12:40
When I bought my V7 111 is went the Hepco and Becker route for the stand.
But again like you found the instructions sadly lacking. I finished up re writing their instruction sheet for them in an idiot proof manner and submitting to them for revision


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R100CS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2021 at 18:09
I bought my V7iii with a centerstand and are very disappointed.
The so called centerstand is NOT in the center of the bike and just lifts the rear wheel.
The BMW centerstands are where the should be, making the pressure on both wheels as little as possible.
So now I'm in the proces of designing my own.
As I have almost no equipment in the storigde it's a slow process.
Now waiting for the BMW to be picked up for maintenance, that will give me a bit more space.
1st R100CS flattened by a truck
2nd R1150R modified
3rd V7iii GREEN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2021 at 19:41
To be fair ALL V Twin Guzzis as well as some Hondas have the centre stand slightly off set so yes they lift the rear wheel and put weight on the front. Funnily enough early pre, what, 60's bikes often had a stand that was Fixed to the rear mudguard and one fitted to the front mudguard to lift the front wheel.

This Side stand only stuff is NOT progress it is saving a few quid, then extorting money for essential items 

The best way if you think about it would be design the old style front and rear wheel stands that fitted to the front/rear mudguards ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R100CS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2021 at 20:04
It's another thread where I explain, while moving the bike into storidge, I need part of the way to have the front wheel on the ground, than I need both wheels off the ground and in the end I need the rear wheel on the ground. I need to seesaw the bike on it's stand. I did some tests trying to make use of the unused bolt-holes but the first design has been butchered as it collides with the engine. To be continued.
1st R100CS flattened by a truck
2nd R1150R modified
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