LM1 Bevel box |
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TheWrongTrousers
Senior Member Joined: 05 Nov 2018 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 658 |
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Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 18:12 |
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Not had the bike long, and am going over it from top to bottom to make it safe and sound. God knows what lurks within the bevel box. Should I take it off and clean it out or should I just give it a top up when needed and leave well alone. There are no bad noises coming from within so maybe I should not go looking for problems when there are none.
Any views ?
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rapheal
Senior Member Joined: 13 Nov 2014 Location: west country Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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Drain and replace the lubricant, and see if their are any metal particles or water floating in the oil
if so it might be better to let baldrick sort it for you
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sardineone
Senior Member Joined: 30 Oct 2018 Location: Indiana, USA Status: Offline Points: 443 |
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Just a heads up. I've been using API GL-5 synthetic in my Lemans transmission & rear end for years. Seemed to have metal in the oil change most times. Recently found out many GL-5 oils are not compatible to yellow metals (like bronze, brass) that might explain the metal in my oil changes. I found in my area that Royal Purple states on the bottle that it is yellow metal compatible. FYI, Mobil 1 is NOT! Your oil in Europe may be different, but I just wanted to bring up the subject.
A footnote: I noticed an immediate difference in rolling resistance when I switched to synthetic gear oil years ago BTW.
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George
One owner 86' Lemans 1000 (member of the family) / BMW R1200ST (current work horse) You are what you have ridden! |
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kfz
Falcone Joined: 13 Sep 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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The beval boxes nevergo wrong. You will need to remove the swingarm to check the UJ and grease up the shaft, once the beval box is free you can remove the pinion as its held in by the swingarm bolts so you can inspect it. If it looks good (it will be) then just pop it back in and forget. Change the oil every other year or 6K whatever first, I wound bother with Moly additive as the bike is old and modern oils dont need it anyway.
Kev
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TheWrongTrousers
Senior Member Joined: 05 Nov 2018 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 658 |
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Thanks all for your helpful replies. I am inclined to leave well alone and just change the oil. Does anyone disagree with what Kev says about Moly additives ? Are they a thing of the past ?
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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I wouldn't say bevel boxes never go wrong. But they are very reliable unless there has been a lubrication problem. Modern oils are superior to those around when Guzzi were designing the bevel box. Having said that, adding Moly won't do any harm, though it's unclear whether it will actually do any good either.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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kfz
Falcone Joined: 13 Sep 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Dont use the level plug either, very easy to strip the thread. just measure out 250ml and poor it in. Job done. I would recomend a good quality GL-4 oil like Rock Oil.
Kev
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rapheal
Senior Member Joined: 13 Nov 2014 Location: west country Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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if you dont use the motorcycle very much, or do short journeys you may well find emulsion in the oil, that in turn will cause damage to the bearings
I have my oil changed each year on the service on the basis oil cheap-bearings expensive |
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kfz
Falcone Joined: 13 Sep 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Not in the bevel box, since there is no source of water. Change it every year thats fine, not like its a big deal only holds an eggcup. I guess the only danger is stripping the drain plug. Kev
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rapheal
Senior Member Joined: 13 Nov 2014 Location: west country Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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odd that as Antonio my engineer showed me some corrosion in a bevel box, if the early ones are like the later small block ones and have a breather, then moisture can get in, if you are foolish enough to ride it in the rain, or wash it ? or just cold air, using the bike hard and riding far creates friction which creates heat I take his advice on the subject as I have seen his work, his 900ss is a jewel of a motorcycle and rides like a thoroughbred, plus he does my mates race bikes I also have my gearbox oil changed on each service ( done every year) as again its cheap, and I tend to ride my motorcycle hard and far, back to Mandello Again this year, I want to wear it out before I am too old to ride any more
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TheWrongTrousers
Senior Member Joined: 05 Nov 2018 Location: Somerset Status: Offline Points: 658 |
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Raphael I want to wear it out before I am too old to ride any more [/QUOTE]
Well said that man !
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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Maybe you should take it off to have the shaft out for a coating of looking at, a clean-up and regreasing. Check splines for wear. You can get a new coupling sleeve if wear is very noticeable. Unfortunately this then leads us onto thinking about the universal joint... FWIW, latterly I changed my FD oil from the hypoid 90 type, to SAE 85W140, plus a dash of moly - I noticed that the box felt cooler to the touch after a long run after that. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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Cooler must mean less friction.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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That thought occurred to me also. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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kfz
Falcone Joined: 13 Sep 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Apart from its the wrong oil for a big block, That makes no sense. Heavier oil 85W-140 vs 8-90, has less friction. Surley a heavier oil, high viscocity oil is harder to move..... Kev
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