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More electrical advice needed

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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 13:23
having slowly worked my way through the rest of my electricery im now up to the oil pressure switch, am i right in saying that the warning light should come on once the ignition is turned on and then go off when the engine is reved (all being well) ?
I am replacing the lights with LED's as i go and assume that the light should have one wire from the pressure switch to one side of the light and power to the other side.
Nothing happends when this is done, have checked the power in and also the light itself both ok.
So presumably it must be the switch is there any way to test it ?
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Ianboydsnr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ianboydsnr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 14:33
Originally posted by ageingroover62 ageingroover62 wrote:

having slowly worked my way through the rest of my electricery im now up to the oil pressure switch, am i right in saying that the warning light should come on once the ignition is turned on and then go off when the engine is reved (all being well) ?
I am replacing the lights with LED's as i go and assume that the light should have one wire from the pressure switch to one side of the light and power to the other side.
Nothing happends when this is done, have checked the power in and also the light itself both ok.
So presumably it must be the switch is there any way to test it ?


Dunno what bike it is, but they normally work by switch to power to the warning light, then from the light to the pressure switch and through the pressure switch it earths through the engine.

So if you pull the connection off the pressure switch and put it to the engine, then the lamp should illuminate.

Edited by Ianboydsnr - 17 Mar 2018 at 14:45
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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 14:51
Just tried that, yes it does come on so that presumably means the switch is knackered, the bikes a G5
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 16:13
Yes the pressure switch should earth the light when there is no oil pressure. Oil pressure opens the contacts. Sounds like yours has a bad contact inside, but do check the connection onto the switch. They work loose and can give the same symptom.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 17:43
keep charge warning light as oem as led WILL NOT WORK simple it needs the resistance of the oem bulb to actually work unless you want to mess about with in line resistors .... (edited as had a brain fa*t)

Edited by Ken-Guzzibear - 18 Mar 2018 at 10:21
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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 20:41
Bought the LEDs from Gutsibits as they have built in resistors
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 22:11
Provided the LED is made to work on 12v, that is with a series resistor, it will work fine as the oil warning.
 
The one idiot light you cannot replace with an LED is the charge warning light with the Bosch alternator.
 
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 14:54
Originally posted by ageingroover62 ageingroover62 wrote:

Bought the LEDs from Gutsibits as they have built in resistors


They usually do, to drop the Voltage down for the LED, doesn't necessarily mean it's a bypass resistor to get the same current as the filament bulb it's replacing. Unless it specifically says so in the description of the item.


To me this all too much faffing about, unless the vehicle comes with LED's as stock, or there's a very good reason why swapping to an LED is an advantage.

Filament bulbs have been good to me on the whole, can't remember losing more than a couple over 40+ years of all the vehicles I've ever owned.

Just IMO... Big smile



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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 16:47
My problem is that the fittings  that hold the bulbs have deteriorated to the point that they are useless so would not hold the bulbs anyway.
Gutsibits sell a series of led lights that fit into a purpose built allot ins panel that also holds speedo and rev counter so i assume they would not be marketing this if the ign light would not work, but i will quiz them about it tomorrow.
I have modified the existing panel to take the leds
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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 16:59
Hi Brian
Thanks for your comments you dont say why you cant replace the ign light with led or what the result will be, ive emailed Gutsibits to ask for their comments as they are marketing a kit for replacing the ins panel complete with lights for just short of £150 with no mention of lights not working.
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ianboydsnr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 17:47
Originally posted by ageingroover62 ageingroover62 wrote:

Hi Brian
Thanks for your comments you dont say why you cant replace the ign light with led or what the result will be, ive emailed Gutsibits to ask for their comments as they are marketing a kit for replacing the ins panel complete with lights for just short of £150 with no mention of lights not working.
Dave


It's because you need the bulbs resistance to start the charging process, if it doesn't get it it won't charge, so if you fit a LED then you need to fit a resistor to give the equivalent resistance of the bulb,.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 18:03
Which would be what and where ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 18:59
Assuming you have a Bosch alternator, it requires a current to flow through the rotor winding to create a magnetic field to generate current in the stator winding.
When you switch the ignition on , the charge warning light bulb passes enough current into the stator to do this. If you replace that bulb with an LED, not nearly enough current will flow though it to start the alternator up.
Yes you can faff about with series and parallel resistors to create that current with an LED, but what's the point when a simple bulb will work very simply and reliably.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 19:02
LEDs are usually a lot brighter than the standard idiot lights, and this can be particularly useful with the indicator repeaters.
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ageingroover62 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2018 at 21:08
Thanks for the advice, however that is going to bugger up my nice newly constructed instrument panel so pain in the rear it may be, i will have to find a way of solving the problem, i know it is probably naive but if i kept the leds but in the wires to the ign light i rewired one of the bulbs back in the circuit would that do the job? the bulb would not be seen as it would be inside the panel.
Also if that would work would the led go out when the bike was running. 
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