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spada nt charging

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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: spada nt charging
    Posted: 10 May 2017 at 00:06
Also check all wires and connectors between alternator and rectifier, and regulator.

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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 22:50
No, length won't matter electrically as long as the joint is good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 21:29
Wish I had thought of that. Not just the job of soldering them but the wires on the new brushes are only just long enough. Does the length affect the resistance? Sorry but electrics are a dark art to me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 19:31
Originally posted by theoneandonly theoneandonly wrote:

soldering brush wires .... i solder to the existing wires and have long wires , then you aren't trying to solder to the plate . 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 11:09
That makes a lot of sense.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theoneandonly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 11:05
soldering brush wires .... i solder to the existing wires and have long wires , then you aren't trying to solder to the plate . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 08:11
I've just been through a variation of what you are suffering. Greg Bender says flash the alternator. Just a thought?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 20:48
not me who has brushes but they are same as bmw items I got new brushes and holders from motoworks less than Guzzi wanted for just the brushes
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 19:05
Originally posted by Ken-Guzzibear Ken-Guzzibear wrote:

If you buy brushes take them to a specialist to have them soldered it is a job beyond most home mechanics even with elektrikery knowledge, needs a real hi temp soldering iron


Yes, I still have and use a Weller Expert, trigger switched 100 - 150W soldering gun. Solder pretty much everything with it, including, bizarrely, electronics, this works because the trigger switch allows me to manually regulate the tip temperature.


Originally posted by danmiluk danmiluk wrote:

Thanks for your reply Ken Got it off after the fight on friday, regulator is brand new changed that as the symptoms pointed in that direction as the slip rings did give me 3.5 ohms but it has been intermitant . This time round no ohms over th slip ring & earthing from engine to the front ring with the brushes lifted. I also had 8v ac voltage from the charge system to the rectifier and dont know what it should be. I found this from 1 of your previous posts. topic testing bosch system. I think it has been on the cards as terminal as the bike had stood for asbout 15 years to me rebuilding it & running it.


Going thru all this again, this is sounding just like what happened to me, rotor went open-circuit, but not fully. So just about making enough juice to run ignition and keep battery up but daren't use lights etc. I also had a Spada type Voltmeter, every time I used brakes or indicators the Voltmeter needle dipped in time. Meanwhile, I was trying to get home from a camping w/e in bank holiday traffic! Ouch Did last out long enough to do it.

Basically rotor was fooked. Can't remember the exact resistance measurement but way too high. Pretty sure was a broken winding, but ends still just touching so sort of worked, but not good enough. That would also perfectly explain your intermittent symptom.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danmiluk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 18:58
Ken private message me your address and i'll take them off your hands
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 13:14
If you buy brushes take them to a specialist to have them soldered it is a job beyond most home mechanics even with elektrikery knowledge, needs a real hi temp soldering iron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guzzigraham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2017 at 11:58
If you need any brushes (the solder on type) I came across some new ones I bought for a California T3 I had a while back. If they are the same and would be useful - yours for the postage if you want them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote danmiluk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 22:50
Thanks for your reply Ken Got it off after the fight on friday, regulator is brand new changed that as the symptoms pointed in that direction as the slip rings did give me 3.5 ohms but it has been intermitant . This time round no ohms over th slip ring & earthing from engine to the front ring with the brushes lifted. I also had 8v ac voltage from the charge system to the rectifier and dont know what it should be. I found this from 1 of your previous posts. topic testing bosch system. I think it has been on the cards as terminal as the bike had stood for asbout 15 years to me rebuilding it & running it.

ROTOR CHECK
 
To check the ROTOR disconnect wires with a meter on lowest Ohms setting between slip rings (The two copper rings the brushes contact there ought to be slight resistance 3.5 Ohms then allow brushes to contact and check at the terminals D to DF this ought to read the same IF slip rings have NO resistance the rotor is I believe the technical term is ...buggered... it the resistance is higher at terminals then brushes not contacting (Isolate the brushes simply lift and slide a none conductive material between them and slip ring.
I used a cable tie.


I'll give the website a look cause i got an agm battery which i think you said that it should charge about 14.6 volts to keep the battery in tip top condition.
Forgot to mention got a haynes manual & guzzi workshop manual but the guzzibits checklist is good and easy to follow.
I can see that you reply to a lot of posts, along with others, having a vast knowledge of the ins and outs of moto guzzi's and people like myself really appreciate pointers were to start in trying to fix our old girls.




Edited by danmiluk - 07 May 2017 at 23:04
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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 20:51
The alt will charge at 2000+ rpm 13.4 to 13.8V is fine the Volts rect is very unlikely to fail the Regulator is worth replacing with solid state variable one Contact Towzatronics online to get one they are plug n play fit to the same bracket and use the same plug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 May 2017 at 20:48
you need the correct tool to get the rotor out as you screw it in it pops the rotor out Gutsibits sell them Have known many people try to use a steel pin only for it to bend in there ..... Well worth finding a decent manual Haynes or the Guzzi ones that are available online free to download
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