Click no Crank |
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Paulsb
Falcone Joined: 08 Feb 2018 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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The diagram is from the back of the Haynes manual and also I have the original S3 handbook.
I can’t recall where the neutral wire goes but definitely not to the relay if that’s what you mean. You have prompted a thought though as I took had the starter out to bench test it over the weekend and might have done something to the neutral connection. Something I will check tonight when I’m home.
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iansoady
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2017 Location: Redditch Status: Offline Points: 2402 |
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Presumably the clutch switch interrupts the live side of the trigger connection (85 or 86) to the relay?
Edited by iansoady - 10 Apr 2019 at 15:32 |
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Ian
1952 Norton ES2 1986 Honda XBR500 1958-ish Greeves/Triumph in progress |
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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Sounds like that's what it needs now, originally it interrupted the 'live' supply to pin 30, which originally came via the ignition switch. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Paulsb
Falcone Joined: 08 Feb 2018 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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I checked neutral switch was ok. Oddly, the neutral light was off. Took the dash out, changed globe and socket and bingo. What a PITA! Might be a sticky switch, we’ll see.
By the way Brian, the neutral light wire on the S3 feeds through the main loom direct to the dash light. So the bike still starts in gear without having to pull the clutch in which it shouldn’t be able to. I have drawn up a diagram. This is what the standard relay wiring should be which requires pulling in the clutch to start. I was getting the click and no crank problem so I made the modification and put a direct line to battery + and moved the brown fuse box wire to 86. From my basic understanding, I can only guess that because the power is direct to terminal 30, it has now made the clutch cable switch redundant because power is going direct to the secondary circuit in the relay. I need to improve my understanding on relays... |
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Chris950s
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2018 Location: Essex Status: Offline Points: 379 |
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I think the red wire from contact 30 direct to the battery is a mistake, in my opinion this should be fused as it is the main feed to the starter solenoid, also the starter will now work when the ignition is off, I just hope you don't park it anywhere near small boys with sticky little inquisitive fingers that like pressing buttons.
The brown wire from contact 30 to the cut out switch was the live feed to the cut out switch, that then from there fed contact 86. You now have 2 feeds to the cut out switch, one from contact 30 and one from contact 86 so you have not only by-passed the cut out switch but have connected the battery direct to the cut out switch which will be live even when the ignition is off. In my opinion you should remove the wires from the cut out switch on the original diagram and just connect contact 30 to contact 86.
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Chris and Karen - Essex
2011 Stelvio NTX, 1974 950S (750S replica nearly rebuilt!), 1966 Triumph T100SS 58 years young this year! |
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Paulsb
Falcone Joined: 08 Feb 2018 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Thanks chris. I confirmed my installation against Greg Bender’s installation for the relay for the S3. I also have just checked against a photo I took of the connections before I started the rebuild which corresponds to Greg’s article. I will no doubt spend another night in the shed and I’ll check if it starts.
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Chris950s
Senior Member Joined: 03 Nov 2018 Location: Essex Status: Offline Points: 379 |
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I am not doubting Greg Bender's knowledge, but I would not have an un-fused feed to the starter motor relay direct from the battery, especially as the starter motor gets so much use. If a fuse pops you can get home, if the starter circuit burns out you won't. On top of that you have shown a live direct feed connected to the clutch cut out as there are two wires on contact 30. I hope you don't have any problems at the cut out switch end as it will be live, whatever the position of the ignition switch. I would not do it, and I certainly would not recommend anyone else to do it.
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Chris and Karen - Essex
2011 Stelvio NTX, 1974 950S (750S replica nearly rebuilt!), 1966 Triumph T100SS 58 years young this year! |
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Paulsb
Falcone Joined: 08 Feb 2018 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Sorry chris, not explained myself well. I confirmed the ‘standard wiring’ installation against Greg’s and my previous photo. I then got the click and no start so i did the modification which got the bike started. The new red wire to the battery has an inline 16A fuse which I should have added to the drawing. Guzziology says because its so short he doesn’t add one but I agree with your thinking and I still added a fuse, short or not.
I have just tried to start with ignition off and no start, turn the key and only then she kicks over, so no problem with starting without a key. So everything functioning ok, just the bike starts without the clutch safety cutout switch not operating which I can live with.
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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Not seen the diagram you have, but I assume the bike should not start if in gear unless the clutch is pulled in. To get that you would have to have the neutral switch wired as the G5 in the feed to the start relay coil. To get the clutch switch to override that it would have to be wired in parallel with the neutral switch, so that pulling the clutch still provides a path to the relay coil. Oh, and I would always recommend a fuse in any direct feed from the battery. Though the risk is small.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Glawster
Senior Member Joined: 14 Sep 2015 Location: Cheltenham Status: Offline Points: 896 |
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Another starter motor review!
When I got my V7 Sport it had the classic "click no crank" symptoms. When I rebuilt the bike I followed the recommended wiring mod and replaced the starter relay with a new one. It improved the situation but did not eradicate it. Next job was to have the starter motor refurbished, which certainly livened it up once it was spinning. I also then found an additional issue where there was no solenoid click, but just a dimming of the warning lights when the starter was pressed. As the battery was 5 years old I replaced it, but I was still getting this issue "low voltage" issue afterwards, unless the new battery was kept on a charger. This week I think I've solved this issue. The wire from the starter relay to the solenoid was the same gauge as I use for general bike wiring - 16A thin wall from Vehicle Wiring Products. I didn't think I would need anything with a higher rating for powering the starter solenoid, but I replaced this wire with a heavier one. I don't know the rating, but it's much thicker. The starter now seems to fire reliably and the solenoid is energised more quickly. I feel a bit of a plonker, but I hadn't realized that 16A wire would not carry enough current. So the question is, how much current should this wire be rated for?
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1970 Guzzi V7 Ambassador
1955 Guzzi Falcone Sport 2021 BMW R1250R 1998 Cagiva Gran Canyon |
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iansoady
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2017 Location: Redditch Status: Offline Points: 2402 |
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I would have thought 16A would be plenty but then that thinwall cable always seems a bit on the light side to me. I do use it for the Norton but then with all of 45 watts from the dynamo and a 28 watt headlight it's hardly likely to overload it......
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Ian
1952 Norton ES2 1986 Honda XBR500 1958-ish Greeves/Triumph in progress |
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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With this "fault" on the later bikes, I believe there was some sort of service release suggesting replacing the wire from the start relay to the solenoid with a heavier wire. The problem is not the current carrying ability, but the voltage drop over the length. A heavier wire will always help. The solenoid does take about 25 Amps for a very short time.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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iceni
Senior Member Joined: 16 Sep 2014 Location: Colchester Status: Offline Points: 2480 |
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I decided to carry out the requisite wiring mod on the 1979 1000SP today, but the Bosch relay wiring seems not to conform to the norm.
Terminal 30 has three brown cables, one looping to 85, all 3 being connected to a single female spade connector. 86 has a single sort of lilac coloured cable to it, and 87 a single green cable. It all looks original- not messed with. I’ve searched this thread, and looked in the Bible but can find no example as described above. The 3 in one is throwing me! I’d like to do the mod, but maybe it doesn’t need it? All advice gratefully received, and thanks in advance.
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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Disconnect 30, and tape up the removed female spade connector. Then with a new wire, connect 30 to battery positive via its own fuse. As it's a Spada all fuses in the stock fusebox are used (unless has been modified); from memory #5 is hazard flasher / turn indicators (always live) and #6 is fairing time clock (always live), so you could use one of those as the starter fuse. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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iceni
Senior Member Joined: 16 Sep 2014 Location: Colchester Status: Offline Points: 2480 |
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Thanks, Mike H. I’ll do that, leaving the brown to 85 in situ.
Much obliged.
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