V50 issues |
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Teesrider
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Teesside uk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2015 at 15:00 |
Hi I am new to moto guzzi having recently acquired a v50 2 which is complete and in nice cosmetic condition. The bike has not been used for many years and starts okay from cold but refuses to start when hot. Sometimes it gives a 'chuff' when I turn the ignition off as if it's sparking when the battery becomes low in power after refusing to fire. Also the clutch refuses to disengage and lurches forward when put in gear. I have adjusted the clutch and ran round the block when it's hot and tried to disengage the plates by varying engine speed in different gears but with no success. I guess this means a clutch out job - any complications with this job to be expected ? It's a shame because if I couldhave resolved the hot starting and clutch issues the bike could have been put on the road this summer. Thanks in anticipation for any advice. Trev.
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Ianboydsnr
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: Cumbria Status: Offline Points: 831 |
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have you tried running it around in gear, then braking hard with the clutch pulled in, it can take a while, but it usually resolves the clutch stuck problem, hot starting, could be choke stuck slightly on, or fuel getting to hot in the line and vapour locking, or plug fouling, the chuff when turning the ignition on, is normal, its firing vapour thats making its way to the exhaust!
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Teesrider
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Teesside uk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Thanks for that Ian running the bike and braking could be the answer but is problematical as the bike is not yet taxed and tested and riding it on the road is a little dangerous because it drives with the clutch pulled in and if you met an emergency situation??? My neighbour suggests running it withe wheel against a wall what do you think. Not sure what vapour lock is caused by and how it is remedied. Thanks Trev.
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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First thing to look at regarding the hot starting is the "chokes", actually they are enricheners, another jet is opened when it's on, and the normal fault is that the plunger is not returning properly because of friction or incorrect cable adjustment, or the little neoprene seal at the bottom of the plunger is knackered.
Clutch is a difficult one. Possibly gummed up with old oil on the plates. The remedy for that used to be brake cleaner poured into the hole on the side of the clutch housing, having put something in the drain hole at the bottom to keep it there. Then run the engine for a bit, operating the clutch lever many times. It can also be worn splines, but that is a major strip to get at them.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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theoneandonly
Senior Member Joined: 24 Jul 2014 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 661 |
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got a centre stand fitted ? this is how to do .
bike on centre stand , run engine in a gear , hold revs at 3k , dab on rear brake whilst holding clutch lever in , how hard do you dab ? ....you choose . have had to do this a few times , seems brutal but isn't really. if it doesn't free off after 10 attempts ....pull it apart .
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http://baldricksworkshop.co.uk/ motorcycle slut, if it has wheels and an engine , i will ride it . |
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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There was published many years ago in Gambalunga a "quick fix" for oiled/dusted up clutch splines, I have used this twice and yes it did work. BUT it is a get you home and if it works will give the clutch a wee bit longer before you have to pull it out.
Block up drain hole (I used screwdriver tip and some rag) take out timing cover bung and pour in some white spirit ONLY use white spirit as IT leaves NO residue. Put back the bung ...start enging work clutch a few times , stop engine remove the plug from beneath look see if there is lots of gunge, you can repeat this. Good idea to have a tray under the bottom hole too. MAKE real sure the timing bung is back in and it is advisable to wear eye protection .... The guy who posted this "fix" had been touring the USA and met a travelling Preacher who had a big miles California who had used this method many times .... I have used it more than once ...Note there were some clutch plates yrs ago that were bonded not riveted, this may give those a problem. If you are kinda at the point of this or rip it apart it may just be worth a shot
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Teesrider
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Teesside uk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Thanks for your replies will give them a go
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Teesrider
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Teesside uk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Hi I had a qick look underneath the bike this morning around the clutch area and could not see where the drain hole is please could someone describe where it is and whether it involves removing a bolt screw etc Thanks Trev
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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Ken's talking about the big blocks, suspect small blocks like V50 do not have this drain hole? Believe someone has written exactly this before...
On a big block it's an indent in the gearbox bellhousing bottom edge so that when bolted to the engine it makes a shallow rectangular hole at the joint. Quite small. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Teesrider
Guzzino Joined: 22 Jul 2015 Location: Teesside uk Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Hi I've just had another look - a proper one this time - and spotted a small rectangular shaped hole in the bottom of the clutch housing. Thanks. Trev
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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There ya go then!
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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