Lodola 235 engine rebuild |
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Posted: 03 Nov 2020 at 09:54 |
Hi there,
I have a 1960 Lodola 235 engine in a box of bits that I am attempting to rebuild, Starting with the crank there appears to be two types,one with a pinch bolt on one side of flange and one that press fit both flange, which is the one I have. Is there a shim either side of con rod between the crank flanges? if so how thick? Once the crank has been pressed up, what clearance am I aiming for? What should the overall width be? Is the crank shimmed in the cases for end float? I have a manual, but its very vague and I don't understand Italian. Help, Donald.
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Well I have new conrod fitted, its 20mm between the webs.
I see oil is fed to the big end from a pipe coming out of the caseing, should there be a seal in there somewhere? I dont see anything in the parts diagrams. Help Donald.
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adrian55
Falcone Joined: 12 Feb 2021 Location: kt229qf Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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hi Donald, i am still trying to get my Lodola engine apart....after taking off the cam housing, i too was mystified as to how the oil is sealed as it passes into the right hand side of the crank....i'll have a look tomorrow to see if i can see any seal inside the crank....do you know if the nut on the right hand end of the crankshaft is right hand thread?
did you find a suitable 4-pronged tool for the final drive sprocket nut? i hope we might be able to work through this together?
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Hi Adrian
nuts on crank are right hand.. Yes the crank oil feed is odd as in there doesn't appear to be a seal .Please look very closely and see if you can find anything. There is nothing in the parts book,and the workshop manual is in Italian and not much help. I did not strip my engine, it came completely strip.I have replaced the bearings,had to get them from Italy off Ebay,could not find them here.The split roller bearing is the same as triumph 5t its was the only one bought here. Donald a
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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The drive sprocket nut I used a c spanner.
a blunt punch could be used to tap it round
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adrian55
Falcone Joined: 12 Feb 2021 Location: kt229qf Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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thanks Donald, will have a close look ......if i can be of any help, please let me know
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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It's nice to know someone else out there is working on one of these bikes
I now have bottom end back together, looks like I have 4 gears, the gear change mechanism is a bit odd, trial and error fit, eventually got it right. There is a bush on r/h side crank that goes in flange side to the case ,has to be placed in position before you drop case onto crank. Having a rebore done and still to clean up head Just made up wiring loom and fitting a solid state voltage regulator |
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adrian55
Falcone Joined: 12 Feb 2021 Location: kt229qf Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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yes, you are well ahead of me....i am impressed by the quality of design, so far
there is no seal at all in the right hand end of the crank, the bore is 8.2 and the od of the brass tube which fits into it is 7.2, so not conducive to high pressure! is the oil on its way back to sump at that point? finally cracked the nut on the right hand end of the crank, with breaker bar, a very high torque for a small nut....unfortunately the gear came off a bit too quickly before i had a chance to mark its position....it has 3 keyways, not equi-spaced, and i guess they are for fine-tuning of the valve timing...but setting it correctly will be difficult. Donald, do you know what this nut is: its on the right hand case, just below the top and a line dropped vertically from it is about half-way between crank and final drive shafts and the shaft it's holding is hollow? Have you managed to source parts like pistons, alternator belt, etc?
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George S
Senior Member Joined: 31 Mar 2018 Location: Essex UK Status: Offline Points: 643 |
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Hi may be of interest there is a Google Guzzi singles forum. I can post the Web address tonight if you want. I
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George
1994 Nevada 1962 Lightweight ducati Bevel Single Son's 1990 1000S to borrow any time |
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Hi George,
Thanks for that ,I have looked a that site, not much information on the lodola that was relevant to the engine rebuild.
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Hi Adrian
the hole I think you are referring to is the gearbox main shaft ,and the clutch push rod goes through it I tried to upload picture of timing gear ,but site wont accept it.
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Here is a link from Don Strada.
user manual, very helpful, shows how timing is set up. mine was a blob of red paint on cam wheel and pinion
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Donald, do you know what this nut is: its on the right hand case, just below the top and a line dropped vertically from it is about half-way between crank and final drive shafts and the shaft it's holding is hollow?
Looking at my engine, is it the brass socket head nut? if so, it just unscrew and there is a long oil filter that filters the oil in sump that is scavenged back to oil tank
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Donald
Falcone Joined: 01 Nov 2020 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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My engine rebuild is coming along, but yesterday dropped a bit of the clutch push rod and I am now turning garages upside down to find it.
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adrian55
Falcone Joined: 12 Feb 2021 Location: kt229qf Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Donald, it will have rolled to the furthest reaches of your garage!!
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