Tape residue left on paintwork.. |
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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Posted: 25 Sep 2020 at 12:36 |
Yes but I was being quoted 500-750 pounds locally to spray tank, mudguard, 2 side panels, seemed excessive to me.
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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The paint hasn't reacted, it just has not dried as it should. My preparation was fine and thorough, and I also used etch primer.
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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Paint will react to many things but usually not getting base absolutely clean is the main one.
My son always starts with etching primer on any second-hand part I give him just to try and minimise any chance of a reaction with the base. On a recent Aprilia project we had seven attempts at getting a rear seat panel to accept the initial coating and we still didn`t know what was causing the problem when we finished. It was most likely something embedded in the plastic, but who knows and that was Halfords rattle cans which he tells me are very good CHRIS |
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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Other than small parts i have stopped attempting to paint, when off earlier this year got a mudguard to bare metal, cleaned it off, proper primer, rubbed it down when the top coat went on ...it went crazed, never had it before so did not paint tank or side panels rubbed them right down, took mudguard back to bare metal, took it to Richard Bexon, I bought black acrylic paint from an e-bay supplier known to Richard, he then primed and painted the parts for a reasonable price. Yes I paid for the paint £45 .... BUT when rattle cans are £10 a pop and for some reason it often goes crazed or you get the micro bubbles or just dust it is not worth it. The paint in cans i got to do the mudguard, that did not work cost £35 .... plus time ... nope not worth it.
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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I might try that. Not sure what you mean by paint reacting?
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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I'm going to complain anyway, I've followed all their instructions and all their products, sprayed always in dry wetaher and I haven't done excessive coats, so will try to get some money back.
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c13pep
Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2017 Location: Doncaster Status: Offline Points: 2110 |
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As a last resort you could try `baking` the paint in front of an infra red heater on a very low setting, but I fear the original paint has reacted and thus may never properly harden.
Have to agree with Ian about starting again especially as it`s the petrol tank Lacquering on top of that may just be a waste of time CHRIS
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you can`t have any fun in a straight line
Monza Honda CB77 project |
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iansoady
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2017 Location: Redditch Status: Online Points: 2402 |
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I hate to say it but it sounds as though the paint just isn't suring properly. The only real solution is probably to strip it all off and start again. I've had some real nightmares with incompatible paints and they only usually show up in the last stages. The last disaster was using halfords "petrol proof" lacquer over one-shot lining paint. Of course it all bubbled up. I later discovered after testing that the one-shot stood up OK to the odd splash of petrol.......
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Ian
1952 Norton ES2 1986 Honda XBR500 1958-ish Greeves/Triumph in progress |
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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I've left this tank now for at least week after applying the black stripes, 2 coats, and look what's happened? I had the tank hanging up for a few says, then had it sat on some cloth, and it's taken on the marks of the cloth. I know I'm no professional sprayer but this is ridiculous. I think this paint isn't fit for purpose?
I'll just flat it back and hope for the best. I assume not good to polish with anything before lacquer goes on?
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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I've had more than my fair share of hiccups when painting.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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Just painted a new Bantam mainstand, needed touching up a bit afterwards as always where I missed bits, foolishly I did that with it lying on paper (it was hanging up on wire before) of course bits of paper have tore off and got stuck to it, now waiting for it to harden some more before I have to rub it down and spray over again, not as critical as a tank admittedly but self ass kicking nonetheless so I sympathise!
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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-HJB-
Senior Member Joined: 19 Apr 2015 Location: Warwickshire Status: Offline Points: 435 |
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+1 with careful flatting back with very fine wet and dry followed by a few good coats of lacquer.
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Jerry atric
Senior Member Joined: 24 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Status: Offline Points: 3367 |
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Haha. You have my complete sympathy. Of course, as long as the paint has gone off well, flatting it will solve the problem. The start again remark was meant if it wasn't hard. Good luck.🙂
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italianmotor
Senior Member Joined: 14 May 2014 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
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I'm going to flat it back first and see how it looks. I really won't be starting again..
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Jerry atric
Senior Member Joined: 24 Nov 2014 Location: Wiltshire Status: Offline Points: 3367 |
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I was using Halfrauds rattle cans and left the main coat that I was masking, a couple of days before masking. In this weather, 24 hours should be plenty. I know photos don't always show the right thing but your paint looks like quite a thick coat. Sadly, the one thing I've learned is that the only way for amateurs like us to correct a paint problem is to go right back to the beginning.
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