Cali 3 right hand switch |
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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But you will have a problem finding the Motoplat system on a diagram. None of the Cali ones show it. Best I can see is the strada 1000. The NTX 750 shows the Motoplat ignition and the Bosch alternator, but I could never say if the wire colours would match.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Ian T
Senior Member Joined: 24 Oct 2019 Location: East Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 679 |
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Ok thanks.
I’ve not heard this run as you know and it probably didn’t, remember I’m the guy that buys 3 wheels. So getting that out of the way. If it were you what would you do as next steps please Cheers Ian
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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That's an impossible question to answer. I would concentrate on one section of the wiring at a time.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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red leader one
Senior Member Joined: 07 Oct 2014 Location: Cullercoats Status: Offline Points: 4466 |
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I agree as it's the only way to eat an elephant. Which is "a little bit at a time"
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Gianni
Senior Member Joined: 16 May 2014 Location: Muswell Hill Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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That R/H switchgear is circa 1989-1998. It is fitted (inter alia) to the LMV and Quota 1000 as stock.
I have just fitted one to my aged 1976 Cali. You have four wires. There are two separate circuits each of wto wires. One is a make/break circuit for the kill switch - power in one side and power out the other (or not when it is the off position). The other is the starter circuit which connects the low current output of the starter relay to earth when the start button is pressed. It is not critical which side of each circuit is connected where (they are effectively reversable) but is is critical you distinguish which circuit does what. If you unscrew the two hex bolt that lock the switch block together you will be able to see inside and determine which pair goes to which circuit - upper pair is kill, lower pair is start. Sorry I forgot to note the colour codes but it is always good practise to check. You could also determine which is which with an ohmeter and some basic logic. I don't know the colour codes of the Cali 3 so cannot recommend which connections you should be making. If it was an early bike the kill circuit is the two white wires and the start circuit is black/white in and black out (to earth). The 4 pin Molex connector looks good but you may need to make an adaptor or make other mods to connect it up. Again w/o seeing the actual bike I cannot be sure what you need to do. Towzatronics on ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/towzatronics) is a superb source for rapid supply of Molex bits. You may need the special tools for popping the pins in and out and crimping them - don't skimp on these.
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Le Mans 1, Spada, Cali 1, T3 Mongrel, Le Mans V, Quota x 2, Stelvio TT
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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The reason for 4 wires is the lights on off are on the left on that set up IF you upgrade to the R1 type right switch the lights park and on re on the right hence 9 wires ..... The pic of that can is the Volts reg junk it get a solid state variable one either from Towza or Gutsibits ...the big rectangular bosch thing is a Rectifier totally bullet proof only ever fail if a dead short you can get replacements but these are used in marine engines and are utterly reliable I know nothing about electronic ign other than it is a compromise but if you heard it run leave well alone by the way the early BMW air head engines used the same charging system .... very very reliable ....but I did tell you this ages ago .....
Edited by Ken-Guzzibear - 30 Jul 2020 at 18:17 |
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Gianni
Senior Member Joined: 16 May 2014 Location: Muswell Hill Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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No the lights on/off circuits are on the left switchgear (as can be seen in the photos).
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Le Mans 1, Spada, Cali 1, T3 Mongrel, Le Mans V, Quota x 2, Stelvio TT
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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typo edited R1 lights on off on right = 9 wires That is like V11 lemans lights on off on left hated that way better kill/start and lights on right ......
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Gianni
Senior Member Joined: 16 May 2014 Location: Muswell Hill Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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OK found a reference for the R/H switchgear wiring colour codes...
Verde-Nero and Gialio-Rosso (Green-Black and Yellow-Red) is the starter circuit. Yellow-Red connects to the Black-White wire from the starter solenoid/relay Green-Black goes to earth. Bianco-Rosso and Blu (White-Red and Blue) is the engine kill circuit. Blue connects to the live feed from the ignition switch (white on the diagram I found). So Bianco-Rosso must go off to the coils somewhere.... |
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Le Mans 1, Spada, Cali 1, T3 Mongrel, Le Mans V, Quota x 2, Stelvio TT
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Ian T
Senior Member Joined: 24 Oct 2019 Location: East Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 679 |
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Yup sorry about that it was more of a how would you tackle it going forward. Least you didn’t say go buy a Honda. I feel like shouting “why me have I been that bad in a previous life” but hey ho I got what I got even if it is turning out to be a big pile of poo more each day. So turning to munching the elephant, I have what I have in the pictures and the old harness. Going forward I think I shall: Forget the wiring diagram I have and copy the harnesses exactly making the additional changes like additional relays and wiring etc for headlight, dip and horn plus beefing up the wires mentioned in previous posts. Get everything back on the bike and connect the harnesses. Shove a battery on it and pray. I can’t think of any other way, without something exact to follow I am in the dark. I think once I am in that position at least I can start to try and match things up. This motoplat thing, is it ok or total crap? I can’t think why they would fit a system and then it not work. Of the electric bits I have albeit they don’t match, do you think they will be comparable, after all they are in there now. Are there more modern bits that would be better but I don’t want to go down the road of those complete systems, this is costing far to much as it is. Ken - never heard it running, is this the solid state voltage regulator you speak off, it’s the only one I can find on Gutsibits But it doesn’t state Cali 3 Well not the happiest of bunnies but hey ho onwards and upwards Cheers Ian |
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Gianni
Senior Member Joined: 16 May 2014 Location: Muswell Hill Status: Offline Points: 676 |
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The solid state regulator can be bought cheaply in a number of places. It is a Lucas NCB403 equivalent.
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Le Mans 1, Spada, Cali 1, T3 Mongrel, Le Mans V, Quota x 2, Stelvio TT
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Richard Hyatt
Senior Member Joined: 14 Oct 2019 Location: Dorset Status: Offline Points: 1097 |
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The little grey can you have in the picture is the old mechanical voltage regulator.
Also involved in turning the red charging light on and off.
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Ian T
Senior Member Joined: 24 Oct 2019 Location: East Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 679 |
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Thanks
Do you think this one will be suitable Cheers Ian
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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They didn't use Motoplat for long, don't know why. I think it had a habit of eating coils maybe. Rita ignition did a kit specifically to replace that Motoplat system. Had that on my SPIII. But I was also given the Motoplat system complete. I discovered one coil was dud, which may have been the reason why a PO had changed it. But I do have that complete Motoplat system in the shed. I would go with what you have and see. If you have any problems with it being suspect I can send you my bits to try as an alternative.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Ian T
Senior Member Joined: 24 Oct 2019 Location: East Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 679 |
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Brian
That’s fantastic and thank you so much. Being able to swap bits will make it so much easier for me being a simpleton. Like you said earlier I’m going to split it all down and do the lights first then the other circuits as I go it may not be a too big elephant. I’ll give you a shout if I need it. Very kind of you. I think alarm bells rang when I saw this little lot. As an aside do you think the three yellow wires from the alternator would benefit from being beefed up to say 33amps, I think it has been said but can’t quite remember and I’m going to order everything today. I take it I will have to use the three way plastic connector again as I can’t seen to find a new one anywhere. Thanks again. Cheers Ian (neophyte juicer under training)
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