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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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The v50 and v50 II are identical from the wiring point of view. It's possible some wire colours may have changed. The link between the brake switches is just to connect both to the light.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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The Older Gentleman
Falcone Joined: 21 May 2020 Location: Sutton, SM1 Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Yes, figured that. Slightly startled that Haynes never did a manual for the V50. I've got the Gutsibits replica of the official, but the wiring diagram illustration in that is tricky - a bit lo-res.
I'd forgotten the III went back to points. Never understood why. Unless Luigi simply had a stock that needed using up. Always thought the electronic ignition on the earlier models was pretty sound.
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Lots and lots of bikes.
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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The coloured wiring diagrams are available online Carl Allison wiring diagrams, they were on Greg Benders excellent This old tractor website he has workshop manuals as well as owners manuals. you can download them print them , what I tend to do is scroll through and print a relevant page ....
Your rear light issue sounds very much like bad earth or broken connection ....start at rear light and work forward 1st earth at the rear light often guzzi earth through the bracket, using a "star" washer Next fail point are the wee cluster of bullet connectors usually under rear mudguard ...if the stoplight switch fails that can cause this issue There are only 2-3 wires to rear light A feed from the brake light switch often black feed to rear light often Yellow the earth is often white/black That is where to look as often the rear lights do short and on rebuild often folk use Black as earth ...the pink and Green/black wires are indicator feeds ......pretty sure most Guzzis across the 70's-80's use the same rear light wiring ...often folk get confused as the wiring diags are in italian so N=Nero=Black V=Verde=Green and Yellow =G .......they also often use a Black/white to go to earth
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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Barry
Senior Member Joined: 02 Mar 2015 Location: Oxford Status: Offline Points: 2811 |
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The only thing that you may be sure of is that the red lines may once have been red, and the black ones may have been any colour at one time. If the wires are covered in that heat-shrink stuff (or, shudder, electrician's tape) then you may not necessarily assume that the red wire is red for its whole length, nor the black one neither. No need to thank me. |
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The Older Gentleman
Falcone Joined: 21 May 2020 Location: Sutton, SM1 Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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That's worth knowing. I'd have assumed black as earth as well!
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Lots and lots of bikes.
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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The Bosch system came in for a bit of flack because the advance "switching" could cause a flat spot. But I suspect points were cheaper.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Ken-Guzzibear
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Sileby Leics Status: Offline Points: 9454 |
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Me I would get the rear light off disconnect the wires .... follow the earth it ought to be earthed where the rear light fits to mudguard/frame Then with just a lamp on a flying lead you ought to be able to check which wire is tail light ...the other will be brake light ..... my V1000 is way more complicated as there is a separate No plate light in separate pod to stop/tail, then when I had it totally rewired, there is a high level led rear light/ stop light fitted to the rear rack as the V1000 has a rear cowling and when loaded I figured a Truck would not easily see rear lights, there have also been 2 marker lights added to the top of the pannier rails ......
I have a spare indicator light that i use as a flying lead, I crimped some small croc clips to the wires, easy to clip one to earth so you can find the feeds
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The Older i Get, The Better I Was
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AdrianW
Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 993 |
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Or do what I do with my old British stuff.. Find a suitable point on the light housing (usually a mounting bolts) and run a separate earth cable to a known good (or the main one as designed by the manufacturer) earthing point..
I know it''s sacrilege ( which will drive rivet counters to maximum apoplexy levels) but I often use the green/yellow household stuff for this (as long as it is copper cored). Then I know it's an earth wire and hopefully any future owner will too... Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK |
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The Older Gentleman
Falcone Joined: 21 May 2020 Location: Sutton, SM1 Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Nice. I suppose I could run it to the -ve battery terminal.
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Lots and lots of bikes.
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red leader one
Senior Member Joined: 07 Oct 2014 Location: Cullercoats Status: Offline Points: 4466 |
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Nice one chaps a bit of lateral thinking.
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Brian UK
Moderator Group Joined: 13 May 2014 Location: Surrey Status: Offline Points: 17641 |
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Either run it to the battery terminal, or to where the battery is earthed to the frame. Or to any bolt on the engine. Remember household wire is not really very flexible, even the multistrand stuff. Vehicle wire has a far higher number of strands and is much more flexible.
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Brian.
Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next. |
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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I thought it was because, of the location, in the front of the crankcase, the sensors got too hot and tended to fail, whereas points are relatively impervious to heat. Mind you my memory plays tricks on me! Frequently tells me stuff that is actually bo11ox ... |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Mike H
Senior Member Joined: 21 May 2014 Location: East Anglia Status: Offline Points: 8733 |
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I'm currently rebuilding a Bantam, by default there would be an earth wire between headlamp bucket and the (one only) common earth point on the frame, not leaving it to chance and the steering head bearings, and I'm doing similar for the tail light so it will have its own earth wire too and not have to rely solely on the rear mudguard mounting and number plate mounting. |
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"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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The Older Gentleman
Falcone Joined: 21 May 2020 Location: Sutton, SM1 Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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And thanks to all. Yes, it was the earth connection from the rear light (middle spade connector of three). The earth wire had been neatly run from the spade connector to...
.... one of the two bolts that hold the (plastic) light unit together. This, of course, meant that the MoT, which was just 11 miles prior to my buying the thing, and done by an outfit in Bradford, was as dodgy as Dodgy Dick Dodgit, winner of the all-England Dodgem Cars championship. New earth wire now run to the frame, on the rear indicator/mudguard bolt. |
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Lots and lots of bikes.
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AdrianW
Senior Member Joined: 05 May 2019 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 993 |
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Glad you fixed it..
Nothing new with dubious MOts I'm afraid.. My V35II came with a fresh one, despite the rear disk being coated in something (still not sure whether oil or fluid) and the dust seals hanging out of the caliper ..!! It's often just a guarantee tha someone has parted with thirty quid... Having said that the local bloke I use here goes the other way. Has a real thing about headstock bearings and pings every spoke and listens to them... Luckily the Guzzi has cast alloys... Cheers, Adrian Bristol UK |
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