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Exhaust Flange Removal

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Glawster View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 13:23
I'm interested in your recommendations for the best tool for removal of the castellated exhaust flanges on the V7 Sport.  I imagine it's the same as on loop frame engines.  Will a regular adjustable hook / C spanner do the job?  Or is there something better?
Thanks,
Derek
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Amboman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Amboman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 14:29
If they're not seized into the heads, then a 58-62 mm hook wrench will work fine. If more force is required to loosen them, then something like this is a better choice:
http://www.claussstudios.com/store/p718/Moto_Guzzi_V700_Ambassador_Elderado_Exhaust_Nut_Wrench.html
Charlie
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Glawster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glawster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 18:03
Wow that's a really excellent dedicated tool.  I wonder if anyone in UK stocks it?  Probably a hook wrench will do the job.  Thanks
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 18:46
I've always used an adjustable C spanner for such things, ever since I owned Norton twins in the dim and distant past.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ranton_rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 19:09
Never had cause to disturb mine. The previous owner made them from brass/bronze so I hope they wouldn't be seized. The special tool looks like a laser cut profile, so would be fairly easy to get one made if you measure up your flanges. Many small engineering firms have small CNC lasers nowadays, although much easier if you can someone to create a profile (DXF file usually) in CAD. It used to be possible to download free simple CAD software. I cheated and got some C-spanners designed and made at work for doing rear pre-load adjusters etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyclobutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2017 at 09:03
Yeah I was very disappointed to note when I had mine up on the table at the weekend that they were using this method of exhaust attachment.  

I have a Morini Camel which has the same approach. When the rear all came loose I found the main issue there was that the collar had been cross threaded in. Big dia and fine threads all coated with a bit of exhaust carbon is always going to be a liability. I've slotted the early threads on it for now so it cuts and bites a little deeper, but it's a head off job for another day. North Leicester Motorcycles supply the right spanner for that - and will machine out and then weld in a new insert as a fix for those.    

Not sure who would provision a Loop option in such circumstances. I'll probably buy one of those wrenches once I've checked at home that it will fit mine - thanks.
Butch
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T3 - 'Blue'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote v7john Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2017 at 10:08
I use a C-spanner on mine. Be aware that the original items and some of the replacement ones with an additional locking ring don't have the same arrangement of slots. Mine don't.

There are a couple of problems with this fixing other than getting the threads crossed up. They can seize in the head or they can vibrate loose! If loose the header pipe rattles in the head and the threads get damaged. I used to lock-wire mine to a fin on the head but now use the later type with a locking ring and copper slip on the threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2017 at 12:51
My 1937 single has a similar set up and I can say with some certainty that the PO used a big screwdriver and an even bigger hammer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GUZZIPETE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2017 at 17:30
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cyclobutch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyclobutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 14:31
Originally posted by Amboman Amboman wrote:

If they're not seized into the heads, then a 58-62 mm hook wrench will work fine. If more force is required to loosen them, then something like this is a better choice:
http://www.claussstudios.com/store/p718/Moto_Guzzi_V700_Ambassador_Elderado_Exhaust_Nut_Wrench.html

Given that I'm now already having to pull the motor on my new to me Loop I've ordered one of these in anticipation. Expensive piece of kit all in - and I bet I get collared for import duties too. 

Anyway, I'll report back when it turns up and I get to swing it in anger.
Butch
V50 II - 'The Black Pearl'
T3 - 'Blue'
Eldo Loop - 'Jug'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GUZZIPETE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 14:54
A good investment Butch. Just spent £50 on a parts from MG Cycle and got charged £50 for duties - ouch.
But then of course, if I didn't spend the money on the bikes I'd probably only waste it ;-)

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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 20:56
We do seem to get hammered buying stuff from thec states.

"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 20:59
Originally posted by cyclobutch cyclobutch wrote:

Given that I'm now already having to pull the motor on my new to me Loop

What's this for?

"Chicken nuggets don't dance on a Tuesday."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyclobutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 10:31
Originally posted by cyclobutch cyclobutch wrote:

Originally posted by Amboman Amboman wrote:

If they're not seized into the heads, then a 58-62 mm hook wrench will work fine. If more force is required to loosen them, then something like this is a better choice:
http://www.claussstudios.com/store/p718/Moto_Guzzi_V700_Ambassador_Elderado_Exhaust_Nut_Wrench.html

Given that I'm now already having to pull the motor on my new to me Loop I've ordered one of these in anticipation. Expensive piece of kit all in - and I bet I get collared for import duties too. 

Anyway, I'll report back when it turns up and I get to swing it in anger.

Yep - they stuffed me on duties - £3 plus the £8 handling charge. Always a problem when stuff comes UPS.

The sq hole is for a 3/8 drive wrench, so I got myself a converter to 1/2 for my kit. It is a really nice fit in the collars as you might hope. And in fact mine were not at all hard to remove. Threads in heads and collars is thankfully all good. I'll reassemble with copper slip, though the possibilities for these winding themselves out is duly noted. I guess there will be some occasional re-tightenings as things settle.

To answer another question; I'm in there due to a g/box return spring failure. And have since also found a pretty nasty starter ring gear and a detached friction plate in the clutch. Nigel has the box right now and has advised I also need some dogs welded and reground. 

I'm a bit busy right now but hope to have everything back ready to reassemble in the first week or two of the new year.
Butch
V50 II - 'The Black Pearl'
T3 - 'Blue'
Eldo Loop - 'Jug'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 13:33
Is this a solution to internal threads on Loops? Saw it on a beemer somewhere.



Cheers
Min
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