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jog53 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 15 Oct 2019 at 20:46
Any hints on making an Enfield Bullet front brakes bite harder ? Friend just got one, and loves it, but not that happy with the front stopper.

John.



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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2019 at 20:54
Steel reinforced heels on his boots?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2019 at 22:19
Thanks Brian, should have guessed that the fix wasnt complicated !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Tarquin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 07:35
Originally posted by jog53 jog53 wrote:

Any hints on making an Enfield Bullet front brakes bite harder ? Friend just got one, and loves it, but not that happy with the front stopper.

John.






Are we talking disc brake or drum brake here John.

If Disc, see if the likes of EBC or others sell a set of Double Sintered Pads for his model.

See link.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=royal+Enfield+double+sintered+pads&_sacat=0
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 08:04
I was going to say, not knowing what brake is involved, it's difficult to be constructive.

If disc, just what is the percieved problem? It may be, as in the Guzzi small blocks, they got the ratio between the master cylinder and calliper wrong. Just guessing of course.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Graham Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 09:00
Mine  was the same  but a older royal Enfield I changed the master cylinder for one off a jap bike with a bigger bore also fitted better pads and hoses . Stops very well now 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 17:35
Sorry, should have said its a front drum........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 19:37
The perceived wisdom is to chamfer the trailing edges of the shoes with a file to increase the surface area in contact with the drum and the advantage of the lever. Slacken wheel spindle nut and re-tighten with brake full on to ensure shoes are centred. Get shoes re-lined with good soft material from the UK. Just 3 things that seem to help on stuff made in 'the good old days'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nab301 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 21:00
There's a guy on the Hitchcocks  forum by the name of Tim NZ who  is an Enfield dealer in NZ and runs race bikes too . I gathered bits of advice  from different  posts of  his  on that forum  about setting up the TLS brake but  on emailing him directly  he was good enough to send a word document with all the details required  to give a consistent brake . 
To quote from this  

"The degree of accuracy required to accurately set a Twin leading shoe brake is more exacting than that needed when setting ignition timing!"

I can email or pm the document  to you if you want,   or repeat the basics here. 

It basically involves  setting the levers as a parallelogram  by  setting the distance between the trunnions to match the cam centre distance  ( 144mm give or take )   after removing as much slop in the mechanism as possible by substituting trunnions and levers if necessary and even filing cams .  I have  only completed the basics and with cheap 10 euro shoes from ebay I have a reasonably consistent brake that will bottom out the forks .

 Also ,what year is the bike?  The pre  2000 ish TLS backplates ( assuming it is a TLS bike) were replaced on later models with better geometry .

I found another post on that forum from a different member who substituted the front brake lever for a clutch lever ( obviously fitted upside down ) from I think a Kwak GPz 500  , I t had a better leverage ratio.





Edited by nab301 - 16 Oct 2019 at 21:04
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 21:31
Originally posted by jog53 jog53 wrote:

Sorry, should have said its a front drum........

Twin eading shoe or single. Very important difference.
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jog53 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 21:39
Ta again Brian. Will revert with more info in due course....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ben. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 21:43
I ran a Bullet for a while, and used the method I'd been shown for my '57 BSA with Ariel hubs. I was told that the trailing edge acts in opposition to the leading edge, so weakening its effect would increase the 'bite' of the leading edge.
This was achieved with lateral cuts across the shoe with a hacksaw, on the trailing edge, a few millimetres deep, at 5mm intervals repeated until the desired effect was accomplished.
Other units of measurement are available.
And Bullets are somewhat leaden ...
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jog53 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jog53 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 21:46
Its a 2001 reg with twin shoes.....And thanks also, Ben.
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2019 at 22:11
The only experience I had with 2LS brakes was on my Commando all those years ago.
That brake was not too good, and suffered badly from fade.
In the end I had it relined with AM4 linings and the shoes skimmed in situ to perfectly fit the drum, done by Joe Dunphy. I said it was a long time ago.

The result? Not much and it still suffered from fade when hot.

But it is important to centre the brake in the drum, and also ensure both leading shoes contact the drum at the same time by adjusting the length of the link.

Centering is done by slackening the spindle slightly, spin the wheel and slam the brake on, then hold it on and tighten the spindle.

I cured the Commando one by fitting a Norvil racing disc. Bike then got nicked.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dave P. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 10:11
Having recently spent time and money on my Bullet to make it stronger and faster I'm considering the possibility of fitting a TLS brake from a 1970 500 Triumph.Now they do work well! Or perhaps a TLS from an Ambo'
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