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Convert fettling

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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2017 at 19:21
Did the choke (enricher) ever work? As well as a cable hooked up on a ferrule (but then choke plungers would always be open?) another possibility is one or both the choke plungers are corroded and stuck.

Altenator cover spacer - yes the idea is to allow some sort of air circulation for cooling. The alternative alloy cover sans spacer doesn't offer any. So apparently bike has a replacement alternator, could this be because the previous overheated and fried? Have read about this but was a long time ago.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 08:28
Originally posted by Mike H Mike H wrote:

Did the choke (enricher) ever work? As well as a cable hooked up on a ferrule (but then choke plungers would always be open?) another possibility is one or both the choke plungers are corroded and stuck.

Altenator cover spacer - yes the idea is to allow some sort of air circulation for cooling. The alternative alloy cover sans spacer doesn't offer any. So apparently bike has a replacement alternator, could this be because the previous overheated and fried? Have read about this but was a long time ago.


Yep, choke worked OK before I got fiddling, so probably as cable hooked up somewhere (hopefully). Will investigate further. From the comments on here, the previous owner sealing the alternator cover to the front engine cover with liquid gasket does not seem to be a good idea!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 08:34
Originally posted by Barry Barry wrote:

Originally posted by Hyline Hyline wrote:


 
It's an alloy cover, but there is no spacer, it's just screwed to the engine front cover.
The choke lever will barely move at all. Does checking the plungers involve taking the carbs apart or is it relatively easy to do?



The alloy cover - as standard - has no gasket. Some sources recommend fitting the plastic 'spacer' (GU18001150) from those bikes which have a plastic alloy cover. The idea being to allow for more 'breathing/cooling' room, There is, apparently, a 'deeper' alternator cover, intended for those bikes fitted with an alternate alternate. No way of knowing what you have - part number engraved in the inside of the cover?

Choke lever - check under the rubber cable covers at the carb body (and at the rear of the choke lever assembly) to see if the cable has jammed. If you managed to get the choke NOT working WITHOUT taking the carbs apart then it might reasonably follow that you can get it back to working without doing so, too. Be patient, Follow the cable runs, check each choke cable to see that it is seated correctly, etc.

In both cases, a parts diagram will be useful to you:

Good diagram of the carbs, assuming you have standard fittings, here: https://www.dellorto.co.uk/product-category/dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/dellorto-vintage-carburettors-and-parts/vhb-vhbz-vhbt-parts/

Anyone got a plastic alternator cover spacer available?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Barry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 10:19
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cyclobutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 11:53
Originally posted by Barry Barry wrote:

Originally posted by Hyline Hyline wrote:


Anyone got a plastic alternator cover spacer available?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-USED-FLANGE-1000SP-US-18001150-GU18001150-GU1800115-18001150-/142596087490

I'm not sure of the thinking here. I guess the alternator needs some air flow to keep things cool in an area that must mostly get quite hot. At the same time you don't want too much water ingress there, in a place just behind the front wheel. 

Can the plastic spacer somehow channel cooling air whilst keeping the worst of any splash away?

If not then I'd just be looking to space the alloy cover off the crank case with use of a fat washer or two, and longer screws if required.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Barry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 12:35
The spacer is not an 'open' (or slotted) spacer - it simply ensures, when fitted, a greater volume of air (space) for the alternator to cool in. Spacing the alloy cover with fat washers would, as you guess, allow for water ingress, which is great if that's where you keep your goldfish. Less conducive to the well-being of major electrical components.

There is, as I mentioned earlier, a '"deeper alternator cover which is suitable for models with Ducati and Saprisa charging systems" (quoting Gutsibits). Were this fitted, assuming the circumstances are appropriate here (which I don't know to be the case), then presumably one might obviate the need for the 'plastic spacer' trick.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 16:18
My alternator cover is 62mm deep, which is the depth referred to by Gutsibits fro the deeper cover, so hopefully no spacer required.

My choke problem turned out to be the plungers stuck as suggested by the helpful comments on here. Thanks to all for the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote red leader one Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 16:22
Sticking plungers sounds painful.
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2017 at 17:48
Originally posted by Barry Barry wrote:

The spacer is not an 'open' (or slotted) spacer - it simply ensures, when fitted, a greater volume of air (space) for the alternator to cool in.

On both mine, Spada & 850 LM, with the stock black plastic cover & spacer, there was indeed a gap all around between cover and spacer, maybe 5mm wide or so, not including where the 4 screws go through of course. Never had any water get in that I was ever aware of, and no signs that there had ever been on the insides. Rusty stator mind you but that's just from condensation.

HTH

EDIT: should explain the cover is somewhat larger than the spacer, ergo the gap is formed by the difference in respective diameters. Not easily visible from the outside when fitted & screwed up, if at all.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayDee24ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 01:27
Adding a plastic spacer to an alloy cover, if it is even do-able, is not a great idea. I have had a few tontis and the metal cover is a much greater heat sink than the black plastic cover; you are much better off to simply buy the black plastic cover (such as here, with the lower extended piece that actually draws cooler air though the cover: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=785)  and spacer together. Years ago I was fixated on chromed bits and pieces, and went so far as to chrome the aluminum cover. This of course made the heat retention even worse, and I very shortly over heated the alternator components. 
Regarding an "upgraded" alternator for your Vert; I am not sure that there is one available. I fit an upgraded 450W set up on my SPII, but as far as I know, there was no upgrade for the Convert. My 1980 Convert has the original alternator and it manages the load just fine. 
John D.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 09:36
Originally posted by JayDee24ca JayDee24ca wrote:

Adding a plastic spacer to an alloy cover, if it is even do-able, is not a great idea. I have had a few tontis and the metal cover is a much greater heat sink than the black plastic cover; you are much better off to simply buy the black plastic cover (such as here, with the lower extended piece that actually draws cooler air though the cover: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=785)  and spacer together. Years ago I was fixated on chromed bits and pieces, and went so far as to chrome the aluminum cover. This of course made the heat retention even worse, and I very shortly over heated the alternator components. 
Regarding an "upgraded" alternator for your Vert; I am not sure that there is one available. I fit an upgraded 450W set up on my SPII, but as far as I know, there was no upgrade for the Convert. My 1980 Convert has the original alternator and it manages the load just fine. 
John D.

Gutsibits do an uprated alternator for the Convert. I assume the previous owner fitted it because fitted heated grips and probably several other items judging by the number of unused connectors I have found under the seat!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayDee24ca Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2017 at 16:51
s the original alternator and it manages the load just fine. 
John D.
[/QUOTE]

Gutsibits do an uprated alternator for the Convert. I assume the previous owner fitted it because fitted heated grips and probably several other items judging by the number of unused connectors I have found under the seat!
[/QUOTE]

I stand corrected; it has been a while, I should have checked first! I see Euro Motoelectrics has the Enduralast one for the Convert with Bosch alternator for $450. It looks to be the same that I put in my SPII with a Saprisa alternator. 
Thinking back, it may have been the Quota I was unable to find an upgrade for. No matter.
John D.

74 Eldorado
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87 SPII
00 Quota 1100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 17:19
My rear master cylinder (with the fluid level sensor) has a bleed valve in the middle of the cap. Where does this figure in the brake bleeding procedure?
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 21:22
That is not a bleed valve, the level sensor float rod is underneath. Is there a bleed nipple cap over it? To keep the dirt out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hyline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 21:33
No there isn't. Just some plumbers ptfe tape wrapped around it. In what way does this valve work with the float?
I notice that some people recommend replacing the float cap with a plain cap to reduce the possibility of air getting in.
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