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Click no Crank

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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 13:03
From memory, if you look at the connector attached to 30, there will be two wires in it. One of those wires will go into the loom and back to F2, the other one loops to 86.
So all you need to do is pull the connector off 30 and insulate it, then connect the new wire from the battery to 30.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 13:14
Ok, that seems clear. Rather than have a loose wire that now goes nowhere from F2, it may be better and neater to remove the wire from F2.

Would you say ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 15:08
Sorry, you've lost me there. What loose wire going nowhere from Fuse 2?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 15:27
30 currently has two wires going to it, the loop wire that goes to 86 and the other brown wire that goes to F2.  If I understand you, I (a) keep the loop wire in place and  (b) pull the other connector off 30 and replace it with a new live wire at 30.  So, 30 will once more have two wires connected to it.

If that is correct there will be no further use for the original wire that went from 30 to F2 because this has been replaced by the new live wire to 30.  

When you say 'you pull the connector off it and insulate it' I took you to mean that this wire would now be surplus to requirements. Therefore I wondered if it would be neater to disconnect it from F2 and discard it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 16:05
There are two wires going into the female spade connector attached to pin 30. Pull that spade connector off 30 leaving both wires still attached to the spade. This leaves 86 still connected to F2 through the spade you just pulled off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 16:14
Yes. I didn't realise that the twin spadey thing pulled off.  I have just gone outside and given it a yank and - yes it pulls off and both wires can remain connected and a new wire can go to 30

Thanks for your perseverance Brian. It is much appreciated, and now my understanding has grown a little more. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paulsb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2019 at 23:17
On a somewhat related issue to this, after a year and a half I have almost completed a full rebuild of my S3. I had to do the click no crank modification to get it started but fired up first go. the problem I have is I can’t see way around connecting the clutch cut out switch after the modification. I have moved the (fuse box) brown wire from 30 onto 86. The brown wire from clutch cut out switch which goes to terminal 30 on the starter now has power direct from the battery so the bike starts without pulling in the clutch. 

Is there a way around this this? I think I have been looking at it for too long....


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 07:23
Sorry, can you be a bit more specific about the model?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paulsb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 07:50
Sorry Brian, late night in the shed, it’s a 750 S3. I’m coming to the end of the this long restoration. I have found a mountain of info in the forum but no-one seems to have had this problem.

These have the switch on the clutch cable with 2 wires, brown and purple. The brown goes to terminal 30 on the relay starter and the purple to terminal 86. There is also another brown from the fuse box to terminal 30. When i wired this way I got the click from the relay but no start. I took out the 2 clutch switch cables and did the modification that is, I moved the fuse box brown wire from terminal 30 to 86 and fed a direct wire from 30 to the battery. The bike started and ran no problem. 

Now when I go to reconnect the clutch switch and I put the purple (onto 86) and brown (onto 30) from the clutch cable switch back to the relay the bike cranks over without having to pull the clutch in, presumably because I have direct power to the relay secondary circuit so I’m thinking there is no way to reactivate the clutch switch, or is there?

I hope that’s clearer and thanks for the speedy reply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 09:15
No, still confused about the bike. What year?
I can't see any model with that layout.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paulsb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 09:35
1975 750 S3, came after the 750S...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paulsb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 09:53
This is the clutch cable with the switch, also came on the T3 Cali I believe


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 10:44
OK. thanks, but I have drawn a blank trying to find any wiring diagram showing a clutch switch.
All I can see is the neutral switch with brown and purple wires connected to the start relay on the G5.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paulsb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 10:54
No problem Brain. Thanks for your help.

I have the diagram for the S3 and have checked against Gregory Bender’s instructions for the wiring of the switch. I am sure i have connected correctly. The problem (I think) is because I have done the relay modification and where before the clutch switch would bridge the primary and secondary relay circuits (between 86 and 30 on the relay), I now have direct power to terminal 30, the switch is effectively made redunadant.

I’m now up to fine tuning the carbs, bleed the brakes and then first test ride. I’ll revist some later date. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 11:07
Where does that diagram come from? Is it available anywhere online?

It seems your clutch switch is where the neutral switch is on the G%. Where is the neutral switch wired on yours?
On the G5 the bike would not start in gear because of this, so is your clutch switch wired to overcome this?


Edited by Brian UK - 10 Apr 2019 at 11:11
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