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Click no Crank

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DrJohn1610 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrJohn1610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 15:37
I look forward to hearing the solution - if I find it first I will let you know!

Arnie
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jpc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2018 at 15:49
For a start, there are two different "click no crank" threads, Arnie.

Check them both to absorb the full impact of our collective wisdom Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ageingroover62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 10:10
Just a quick comment on this particular topic, having had this problem myself can i just make one observation, in my case i read the post and most of the comments but my G5 has in the past been rewired in parts and so the colour of the wires and even the routing is non standard.
When you look at the diagram at the beginning of the topic its not clear which cable go where, so if your wiring is non standard colours and you are not electrically competent you are struggling.
Can i suggest someone adds an indication to each wire as to where it goes to or comes from to make it easier to identify.
i got there by trial and error but still dont know how.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theone&onlymin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 12:41
Touching wood furiously, since my fuse box rebuild and clean up I have had no problems. Before that it depended on how charged my battery was. Or other unknown factors.

Cheers
Min
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 13:53
David is this what you mean:

Related image
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote hughguzzi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 15:42
Did the wiring mod as advised on here on my 1100 Griso 2 yrs ago and has never 'click no crank' since.ClapClap  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MelJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 10:18
Ye olde Bellagio is now a definite victim of click-no-crank-itis. New battery did not help, so next up is some wiring modification. If I can get it home!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 11:06
You can always start it with a screwdriver shorting from the main top terminal on the solenoid to that smaller spade, ignition on of course.
Brian.

Better 5 minutes late in this world than years early in the next.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcspor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 09:14
I was enjoying a ride out on Friday morning only to suffer from the 'clink no crank' syndrome that I now see is a common issue from the numerous Posts.  In addition to the lack of performance from my starter button the rev counter does not 'rev' either ... could that be connected to the same wiring / relay issue or just an unhappy coincidence?

Recommendations for Guzzi servicing / electrical repairs around the Henley area would be highly appreciated.  Cheers ...   
Guy
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 13:23
I don't think the rev counter could be affected by the wiring of the start system, so it has to be an unhappy coincidence.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 09:11
These questions relates back to the original post by Brian. I have looked at the before and after drawings. 

1. Brian says that one must ensure that the loop from 87 to 85 remains intact, however in the 'after' diagram the loop does not remain appears to remain intact. What does it mean by 'remain intact' ?

2. After the mod, where does the wire go from the 85 terminal? Brian says it should remain in the loom, which is fine, but I need to know what to connect it to.

Can anyone help with this please ?

Serenity Now !!*!**!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 10:33
The wire which was connected to 87 is looped on to 85. So remove wire from 87 but leave the loop from that wire still connected to 85. In other words the wire that comes out of the loom must remain connected to 85.
That feed comes from the ignition switch via fuse 2. You can see it in the wiring diagram.
Item 23 is the relay. However I see the numbers are reversed on that diagram.
So if yours is wired up like that, remove connection from 30 leaving wire still connected to 86. Then put direct feed from battery positive to 30.




Edited by Brian UK - 28 Feb 2019 at 10:39
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 10:57
Ok , lets see if I have got it. Now on the actual wiring diagram the poles on the relay have different numbers to your diagram, but with reference to the LM1 wiring diagram ( the link to which is below) - i think what you mean is as follows:

1. detach the loop between 86 and 30. 
2. replace the positive feed at 30 (which runs to to ignition via Fuse 2) with a new separate positive feed
3. then run a wire from 86 up to Fuse 2 



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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 11:31
No, I said leave the loop from 30 to 86, but remove the connector from 30. Then new wire from 30 to battery. That leaves 86 still connected to fuse 2.
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TheWrongTrousers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2019 at 12:25
Ok, so I leave the loop from 30 to 86. 

Then I remove the existing connector from 30 (that's the one that went up to F2) and replace it with a new positive feed. 

However, if I do that, the wire that I have replaced  - the one that previously connected to 30 - is the one that originally went up to F2. 

I think what I am trying to find out is what happens to that wire and if it is no longer connected to 30 I don't see how 86 can still be connected to F2.

I am sorry if I am being even more dim that usual, Brian.  Please bear with me.

Serenity Now !!*!**!!
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