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Cali Stone Engine Removal

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DavieL View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Sep 2018 at 22:52
Hi, I'm planning to remove my engine to clean up and re-paint the crankcases - the factory black paint has flaked off and is looking a bit sad.

I understand the technique is to block-up the engine, disconnect the appropriate parts and lift the frame off (sounds easy when I say it like that Smile). If possible I'd like to leave the injectors in place. Would I be right in thinking that the airbox and inlet rubbers can be removed and the injectors left in place before lifting the frame clear?


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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 11:47
The Hanes manual does cover this However off with tank, seat, battery take out rear mudguard easy with seat off, then take out rear wheel. Not it is imperative to block up under the sump so it is totally level as you have to then take our swing arm and centre stand, undo all cables and take off starter motor this should leave the engine/ gearbox suspended ... double check electrics are free, oil pressure switch etc personally I would take out the inlets and throttle bodies as on a carb bike you remove them, remove breathers, ...then undo the 4 bolts holding battery tray then rear engine bolt finally front engine bolt oh yeah sidestand you ought now to be able to lift the rear end and wheel it on front wheel away from the engine gearbox, you may need assistance and make sure there is enough room to wheel it away .... the lower mounts can then be moved away from the engine gearbox, others who did this cleaned the old stuff off with nitro mors then washed and prepped it with Frosts marine clean and metal ready before painting it either with Harley wrinkle finish or Satin hammerite smooth ...Hammerite works well .... takes a good 24-48 hrs to harden.....The hardest part is when putting it back together the lower frame rails to front engine mount are an absolute B to get in, you often find the 2 bolts thro' the lower frame-front mount are slightly bent ... do not be tempted to get new ones lol fit all the engine bolts loosely and then bolt the battery box in before tourquing them all up don't forget main earth you need a weekend to do it mate and help ..... I have done it all in a under 8 hrs to swap out a clutch ....whilst at it ...grease up the uj check the bearing in uj shaft ....grease up the spline sleeve on drive shaft and you can clean n touch up frame you may find it useful to get new centre stand bushes and take note of how they actually fit .....hope this helps it is a long job and one needs to be methodical ...the first time I took the v1000 down to this I went by the numbers in Haynes manual, apart from the FI stuff it is the same frame as all the other bikes from 76 on with the 850/1000/1100 engines ....hope this gives you a good idea ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 13:57
If you look in our FAQ section there is a full description on how to crab a frame, with pictures too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 14:00
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 19:16
Thanks Brian. Not quite removing the frame but close enough. Lots of useful information, it looks like carbs can be left in place so injectors should be ok too Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 21:24
If you can leave the front wheel in, then you literally wheel the frame off the bike once the last front engine bolt has been removed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2018 at 22:27
Originally posted by Ken-Guzzibear Ken-Guzzibear wrote:

The Hanes manual does cover this However off with tank, seat, battery take out rear mudguard easy with seat off, then take out rear wheel. Not it is imperative to block up under the sump so it is totally level as you have to then take our swing arm and centre stand, undo all cables and take off starter motor this should leave the engine/ gearbox suspended ... double check electrics are free, oil pressure switch etc personally I would take out the inlets and throttle bodies as on a carb bike you remove them, remove breathers, ...then undo the 4 bolts holding battery tray then rear engine bolt finally front engine bolt oh yeah sidestand you ought now to be able to lift the rear end and wheel it on front wheel away from the engine gearbox, you may need assistance and make sure there is enough room to wheel it away .... the lower mounts can then be moved away from the engine gearbox, others who did this cleaned the old stuff off with nitro mors then washed and prepped it with Frosts marine clean and metal ready before painting it either with Harley wrinkle finish or Satin hammerite smooth ...Hammerite works well .... takes a good 24-48 hrs to harden.....The hardest part is when putting it back together the lower frame rails to front engine mount are an absolute B to get in, you often find the 2 bolts thro' the lower frame-front mount are slightly bent ... do not be tempted to get new ones lol fit all the engine bolts loosely and then bolt the battery box in before tourquing them all up don't forget main earth you need a weekend to do it mate and help ..... I have done it all in a under 8 hrs to swap out a clutch ....whilst at it ...grease up the uj check the bearing in uj shaft ....grease up the spline sleeve on drive shaft and you can clean n touch up frame you may find it useful to get new centre stand bushes and take note of how they actually fit .....hope this helps it is a long job and one needs to be methodical ...the first time I took the v1000 down to this I went by the numbers in Haynes manual, apart from the FI stuff it is the same frame as all the other bikes from 76 on with the 850/1000/1100 engines ....hope this gives you a good idea ...


Thanks Ken, excellent description that will be a great help. Paint advice is most welcome too. I plan to check the clutch when I've got the engine out as I think the crank seal might be weeping. Why replace the center stand bushes though?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2018 at 23:16
Its coming out Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jerry atric Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2018 at 07:19
When the centre stand bushes wear the rear wheel won't clear the ground when the bikes on the stand. Its a lot easier to change them for little cost while you have everything stripped.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 19:39
Engine out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 21:34
And as that well known manual says, reassembly is the reverse. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote red leader one Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2018 at 22:52
That looks very clean.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2018 at 19:11
I always find reassembly can be a real pain and can fightcha ....I tried the crabbing it is easier to reassemble but has it's own issues of stability and I used a block n tackle on the roof frames with the bike lift table to raise and lower it all ........I find the front end way more difficult to reassemble once you can get the lower engine bolt and the bolts holding the frame / crash bars in loose bolting up the battery tray gets it more stable, easier with help, I have often had to do it alone and boy it tasks you somewhat...... Years ago prior to lifts I found a beer crate was just the right height used it for years
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DavieL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2018 at 21:21
Originally posted by Ken-Guzzibear Ken-Guzzibear wrote:

I always find reassembly can be a real pain and can fightcha ....

Yes I expect it will be interesting Smile My recently purchased scissor lift has been a revelation, I don’t know how I would have managed without it..... especially since the demise of the milk crate LOL

The photo is flattering. The crank cases are manky, the paint has blistered and turned all crumbly. A bit like a Oreo biscuit! I managed to remove it all by gently scraping it off with a screwdriver. The gearbox paint is not so bad, but I think I will have a much harder job getting off to prep for repaint. 
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