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Alternator Removal Tool

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AdrianW View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 16:26
Just a quick query.. Some time I am going to have to deal with the oil leak from behind the alternator somwhere on my V35II.
I see you can get a "special tool" , basically a 8mm bolt that has been slimmed down at one end. There's one on Ebay for not much money..

Speaking to a Guzzi supplier at Shepton he reckoned that in his experience they can bend and instead uses a 3 claw puller.

Any comments /  advice?

Thanks,

Adrian
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Richard Hyatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Hyatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 16:43
I must confess , I would be rather hesitant using a puller to draw off the rotor - just in case it slipped and munched the windings.
I bought my puller from Gutzibits about 9 quid inc post , screwed it in until it was as tight as I felt right - then quick tap SQUARELY on the end to break the taper and POP off it came safely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Paul-l Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 18:00
I did just make one from a length of M8 threaded bar and a nut, then filed the threads off the last 30mm ish, seamed to pop the alternator off just fine.

Any idea how to get the gearbox output seal out without stripping the box completely?
Paul

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Chris A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 18:48
If you dont want a homemade tool to mushroom and completly mess things up get the one from Guzzibits...the few quid it costs  could helpy ou save an awfull lot of anxt and cash if things go tits up with the bodge job.
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iceni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iceni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 06:40
As have others, I made one from a bolt, and was obviously fortunate that the rotor popped off with very little effort.
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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 07:58
Provided the bolt is high tensile, it should work safely. The Gutsibits one is but there is no way to know what Ebay sellers have.

People have been known to use a bit of 5mm rod as a spacer and screw in an M8 bolt. This has resulted in the rod bending and becoming stuck giving all sorts of problems.
Brian.

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Ken-Guzzibear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken-Guzzibear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 11:29
The correct tool is either the threaded bolt as Brian says MUST be high tensile steel as a bent one is very bad ...The Guzzi part is a correct length of hi tensile steel undo the stator take out the centre bolt pop in the hi tensile rod re tighten centre bolt to pop the rotor out... Beware the unknown suppliers a bent one can really ruin your day Gutsibits
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Mike H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 14:00
^ what he and Chris A said. Over the years have been several stories of cut down screwdriver blade etc. going wrong. 

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Ben. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ben. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 14:49
Allen headed bolts are usually high tensile, a rare one with a rolled thread would be perfect if you have one, or they can be ground down. 
If a hacksaw will cut it, it ain't hard enough.

Whatever you use, test it, then you'll know, since "High Tensile" is not a specific stage of temper,  it's a bit like a 50 SAE oil not telling you what temperature it is measured at.
All calculated to ensure you know nothing.
I have a knife with a "stainless steel" blade, which is highly magnetic ...?
It's another indication that descriptions can verge on the illegal, and you need to know what you're doing wherever possible.

And if you ever do tap the end of a piece of high tensile steel, do it with a low tensile hammer to avoid getting a shard embedded in your eyeball. Not recommended.
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Chris A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 15:10
A famed guzzi mechanic who shall remain nameless apparently uses a grease gun and the appropriate fitting to do this...a bit messy for me but no mechanical damage can result so it does make sense.
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johnno View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 15:16
When I did my 850 I did not listen to any advice and made my own tool . What a dickhead . Buy the tool Thumbs Up
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iansoady View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote iansoady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 15:33
Ben - high tensile does not mean that you can't cut it with a hacksaw. You're confusing hardness with tensile strength. An HT bolt should be able to be cut although it might be hard work. And again, it's hardened steel you shouldn't hit with a  hammer. HT is fine.

And there are a number of different "stainless" steels some of which are magnetic - eg ferritic and martensitic - austenitic stainless is however non magnetic.

As a peripheral question does anyone have the dimensions of the reduced section so I can turn one up on the lathe if I come to need one?
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AdrianW View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AdrianW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 15:54
Thanks all..
I guess I'll add the tool to the list next time I do an order for Gutsibits.

The Ebay one claims to be high tensile and I'd save the postage but probably best to play safe..  Knowing my bike it's bound to make other demands on my wallet long before I get around to looking at the oil leak..
In its defence it is keeping bad company, 3 other bikes in the garage have regular contests in leaking oil from novel or unexpected places...

Thanks again...
Adrian
Bristol UK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dukedesmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 16:30
Originally posted by Brian UK Brian UK wrote:


People have been known to use a bit of 5mm rod as a spacer and screw in an M8 bolt. This has resulted in the rod bending and becoming stuck giving all sorts of problems.

I used a dowel (hardened?) and a bolt on my LM2, worked fine.


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Brian UK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian UK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 21:38
If it was hardened, no problem.Most probably isn't though.
A length of allan key ground off would be fine, that wouldn't bend.
Brian.

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