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850T shift linkage mod for rearsets

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Stomp944 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Oct 2016 at 23:38
This post is a followup to my recently completed 850T cafe project (1975) posted in the 'restorations' section.  It may help anyone considering an aftermarket solution to use rearsets instead of stock pegs and levers.
Early on in the project planning process I decided to go with aftermarket rearsets, and chose a Tarozzi set (below).   Side note - a shorter folding peg exists, which I swapped out for the one pictured as they stuck out too wide from the frame on the 850T.

While I thought I had a good idea for the brake linkage (drum rear), it took a while to sort out the shift linkage.  None of the billion Tarozzi kits was designed for the earlier 850's (nor is any other aftermarket rearset brand I could find), so I was on my own to figure it out.  Many ideas later and after speaking with Jim at FFTP, I went with a spline shaft approach.  I was skeptical that any other linkage would effectively transmit the required force, and no solution was posted or offered or mentioned anywhere I looked. Angry

Since I was retaining the drum brake linkage, I was still using the left and right 'block plates'.  The smallest spline shaft in the Tarrozi offerings is 16mm (5/8").  I drilled through the 12mm cap of the block plate on the left and got a steel bushing as a spacer to account for lateral forces.  The 'exploded' view of what I ended up with is below.



After completing the rebuild and subsequent test rides, I found it did not work as well as it needed to.  No matter how snuggly tightened, more and more slop was introduced to the point that the thin walls of the 16mm hole in the block plate began to crack.

I thought of buying a new block plate and cutting down the original shift lever, retaining the stock linkage.  But a new plate is $80 and I’d already bought the Tarozzi levers, and still felt that I could get the original approach to work.  So here's what I ended up doing.  I bought a 4"x4" steel plate and a 5/8" ID steel bushing and drew out the dimensions to fabricate a new block plate.



A little drilling and cutting later, I had the necessary pieces.



Rough cut pieces prior to welding, alongside the stock (and earlier modified) plate:



At this point, the position of all holes was tested on the frame for placement & accuracy.  And the required width of the steel bushing was measured 3 times (more like 9 Embarrassed) to be sure each arm in the linkage would line up with its corresponding neighbor.  Speaking of neighbors, the one across the street has a mig welder and was kind enough to do the honors for this job Clap.  A short while later, both bushings were welded into place (including a few gussets similar to those pictured above on the stock piece).  A little grinding of welds, as well as cleaning and rounding the rough edges of the cut steel, and the new plate was ready for duty.



Installed plate/bushing above; yet to be painted (color of lower frame rail), but a 30 mile ride proved it works perfectly and is solid with no slop or movement.  Lever action is positive and smooth and predictable.  Everything else pictured is either stock or Tarozzi.

While this might seem a lot to do, I believe it is within reach of the average home mechanic who has ever used a drill press and a cut-off tool.  Total cost of materials was under $10 from Marshall's (not including a fresh cut-off wheel, or adult refreshments to keep the welder happy).


Sean
'75 850-T
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MaxMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MaxMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 16:00
Quick question:

Where did you purchase the rearsets? Thanks!
Max Lynch
'75 850T
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